Button descriptions have worn off - Bosch 24 in. SHX46A05UC Built-In Dishwasher

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There are several things that could cause a knock, ranging from a worn crankshaft bearing(s) to a worn water pump.

You can further pinpoint this knock by defining if it occurs occasionally, constantly, just at a specific RPM, or only under a load.

What kind of a knock is it? Hi-pitched or low-pitched?

A more detailed problem description would yield you a more specific/helpful answer.

"Hard starting" is a very vague description of the problem. There are MANY things that can make an engine hard to start - ranging from a weak battery to a bad fuel pump, to worn-out spark plugs or a plain, worn-out engine...

The only "solution" I can offer at this point, would be to recommend doing some diagnostics to determine at least which system in your vehicle is the cause of the hard starting.

Some models had a weakness with the variable resistance in the rotary switch but your description sounds more like the main PCB or even the motor both of which are very expensive parts to replace.

From youe description the problem with this smoke (white/grey smoke) is oil getting into the combustion chambers through worn valve guides or worn piston rings. Worn piston rings can be checked by using compression tests on eash cyclinder.
Worn valve guides require the cyclinder head to be removed to replace valve guides.
Worn piston rings requires a major engine overhaul and in this case it maybe better to get a reconditioned engine.

This sounds like the rubbing strips at the front of the dryer are badly worn and/or the rear bearing is worn. From your description - the drum is sticking - causing the motor to slip on the belt - causing the burning smell.
Replace worn parts including the drive belt.

well.. you could blow something up if you hook the charger up wrong by accident.. but that is unlikely.
it sounds like you have a short somewhere or your ignition could be worn out.

but before you consider that i would check the simpler things first.


i dont quite understand your description but i will take a shot at it..
if the cab lights stay on when the key is out you need to check the little button that both doors push in when they shut that lets the cab lights turn on when you open the door. for both doors

check the button that your glove box door hits to shut the light off and make sure the lights off when you push it.
just find those buttons and push them in and the lights should shut off.

let me know if im on the right track

Here is a check list I have my technicians use for diagnosing this kind os issue. Increase in Effort While Turning Steering Wheel Step Action Yes No 1 Did you review the Power Steering System Description and Operation and perform the necessary inspections? Go to Step 2 Go to Power Steering System Description and Operation 2 Verify that there is an increase in effort while turning is present. Does the system operate normally? System OK Go to Step 3 3 Check for the following tire related conditions: ? Incorrect tire inflation--Refer to Tire Inflation Pressure Specifications in Maintenance and Lubrication. ? Improper tire size Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 10 Go to Step 4 4 Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Check for a binding or worn tie rod end. Is the tie rod binding or worn? Go to Step 7 Go to Step 5 5 Check for a worn or binding intermediate shaft. Is the intermediate shaft worn or binding? Go to Step 8 Go to Step 6 6 Check for a worn or binding steering gear. Is the steering worn or binding? Go to Step 9 System OK 7 Replace the outer tie rod end. Refer to Rack and Pinion Outer Tie Rod End Replacement . Did you complete the repair? Go to Step 10 -- 8 Replace the intermediate shaft. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in Steering Wheel and Column. Did you complete the repair? Go to Step 10 -- 9 Replace the steering gear. Refer to Steering Gear Replacement . Did you complete the repair? Go to Step 10 -- 10 Operate the system in order to verify the repair. Did you correct the condition? System OK Go to Step 3

Hello, from your description it sounds like your hot/cold blend door actuator is acting up, could be any number of reasons, and it's not that uncommon. Worst case scenario is that the heater box is broken or worn out and the entire dash would have to come out just to get to the heater box. Most independent shops can diagnose this problem fairly quickly. I hope this info helps...(subytech1)...

Sorry, your problem description in the Subject got truncated. Can you please repeat it here? All that appeared is, "200L is stuff in duplexing and jamming someone put..." The Interrupt button not working, that could be either the membrane or switch beneath the button is worn, or there's another button stuck and interfering with it.