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What is causing the stitching to gather and break underneath?

I have a new quiltmaster and seem to have lost the manual!Is it the tension as threading etc is correctly done. Any ideas?

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  • Contributor
  • 11 Answers

It certainly sounds like the tension. Check with the manufacturer, as they will help you and tell you how to replace the manual.

Posted on Nov 26, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: Janome 184D - thread tension

You may need to purchase a Gathering Attachment
Part No. 200 217 101

BUT be sure it is suitable for your model first
(I am unsure which one you have)

Thread tensions are set at manufacture to all = 3 for standard work, your manual is generally helpful for many answers.

The "Janome Overlocker Sewing Guide" is a very detailed publication and has this to say about Gathering without any additional attachment.

93bbe93.jpg

Posted on Feb 17, 2008

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: Loose stitching underneath. HOW CAN I FIX!!!!

I'm **t sure what you mean by freehand stitching........do you get a good even stitch with zig zag, this is the most important first test ?

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint jams....**w for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you can**t form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me k**w if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "k**tting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and **t to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do **t gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would **t recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small *****s and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (**t soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is ** lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension ***** in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other ***** at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is **t a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's ** trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension ***** very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it can**t be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....** case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (a**ther reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

Posted on Mar 09, 2008

dizzythevamp
  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: lost my manual for my Brother CS-100-

Here is a site for the manual. Just click get manual, register for free on the site, then download it. It works great!

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: my white speedylock serger 1634 thread keeps getting in knots

i have the book and it says thread from inside out, inside looper (upper) then lower, then thread the needles, first right then left.  I have found that it does not matter if you thread the needles or loopers first but that you should try to thread from inside to out.  

Posted on Feb 25, 2009

Mimito7
  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: Top thread stitches correctly but bottom thread loops.

FYI---- Loops on the bottom-- problem is in the threading..
Loops on the top--- problem is with the bobbin.

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

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1 Answer

My Toyota 444 sewing machine. When sewing,stitches ok on right side of material but underneath,stitches are entangled. sometimes it stops sewing and I have to pull thread out.


ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot when threading the top thread. (You will need to remove the top thread from the machine and rethread from the beginning.)

For tension, start out with it set about the mid-point on the tension dial. Then tweak it from there. If top thread is showing on the bottom of the fabric, tighten the top tension. If bobbin thread is showing on the top of the fabric, loosen the top tension. It's ideal when both threads meet in the middle of the fabric.

Sep 12, 2017 | Toyota Sewing Machines

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There doesn't seem to be a stitch long enough on machine for basteing so I can gather material?


Try loosening both top and bottom tension. while longer stitches are easier, it can be done on shorter stitches as well. A bennifit to shorter stitches is the gathers will be smaller and easier to work with! Remember to reset the bobbin tension before sewing again.

Dec 16, 2012 | Janome 8080 Computerized Sewing Machine

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Cant embroider on toyota quiltmaster 50


The Quiltmaster 50 can only do free-hand embroidery. Use the darning foot. Set the machine for a satin stitch with a stitch length of 0 and lower the feed dogs. Manually move the hoop to stitch your design. (Trace the design on the fabric and place on a stabilizer if needed. Center the design in an embroidery hoop and move the hoop under the needle. In my limited experience, all fabrics need stabilizers. Some require multiple sheets of stabilizer.)

Personally, I have trouble moving any fabric under the pressure foot. This is mostly a matter of practice. You have to make a lot of scrap piece trials.

This site has the manual for the Quiltmaster 50 (European version): http://www.home-sewing.com/WebRoot/Store/Shops/homesewing/4AAF/95FA/5ED9/1505/56BA/4D44/240A/754B/QUILT50_0020_EFNI_0020__0020_679111-CEA10.pdf . See page 37 (49 of the PDF).

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells
(who actually cheats: I either use an embroidery sewing machine or I use a late 1960s Singer Sewing machine with its Monogramming accessory. This has pre-programmed designs on little discs. That's why I don't practice free-hand stitching.)

Jun 15, 2012 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Stitch too tight on top, too loose on bottom


This is a problem with thread tension. The needle thread is too tight and the bobbin thread is too loose. I don't have one of these machines, but there should be either screws or knobs to adjust. Look at your manual. Here's a page I found on bobbin tension.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1022927/Toyota-Quilt-50.html?page=50

Aug 06, 2017 | Toyota Sewing Machines

1 Answer

When i do gathers on my machine i use the largest sticth,but the gathers r hard to pull. y/


Stitch length of 4, loosen your top tension by half a number and always pull up the bobbin threads.

If you need to gather yards of fabric then get a gathering foot. Janome make one - it looks like this
10_24_2011_6_57_47_am.jpg

This foot is for creating soft gathers in lightweight fabrics. The underside of the foot is raised behind the needle and has a thick bar in front of the needle to gather the fabric. This works great to create the gathers as you sew. You can also gather and attach a ruffle onto a flat piece of fabric simultaneously, run the flat fabric through the top groove of the foot and the underneath fabric is gathered and stitched to the top piece, you need to keep the bottom piece feeding smoothly though so it takes practice to guide it evenly. Once mastered it is great to ruffle on valances and cushion frills.

Other option is use a ruffler foot, these will make a little ruffle every 12, 6 or 1 stitch so give a set result, and to obtain a more dramatic gather. They look like this.
10_24_2011_7_04_39_am.jpg

The arm of the foot with a C'shape sits over the needle bar of the machine so it is moved up and down to activate the device. The little blade at the front moves backwards at regular intervals forcing a "tuck" of fabric into the feed to be stitched. Again you can ruffle and stitch to straight fabric at once but it is an art to master.

The weight of the fabric you are gathering is obviously the key variable, ginghams and poplins are lightweight so gather easily but if you need to gather something heavy like cordoroy it is going to be a battle and threads may break. If so, stitch two lines of gathers and don't try to do long runs, you'll just break a thread and have to start over.

Another good way is to zig zag over a length of perle cotton, taking care not to actually stitch the pearle at all. You can then gather up the fabric along it, this works well for heavier weights.

Oct 22, 2011 | Janome Memory Craft 9000 Computerized...

1 Answer

I'm having trouble gathering fabric...no matter how I adjust the stitch length it seems to be too tight and I break the threads when I try to gather. Help!


So you are sewing two rows of straight stitch at 10mm and 20mm from fabric edge with a stitch length of 4? Are you using good quality thread? I like Molynecke, Guttermann or Sylko Supreme.

Try loosening the top and bottom tension too, and use a gathering foot if you have one.

A quick solution is to zig-zag over a length of pearl cotton or similar heavy weight string/thread, this works well for large volumes of gathers such as around a bed valance frill.

For large volume gathering like cushions and bed frills, I use a pleater/ruffler attachment, however, this has only 3 settings so isn't a variable gathering effect.

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1 Answer

My zig zag stitch is puckering fabric. I even went to the multiple zig zag, same problem. I decreased tension. What should I have double. Note: this was on single layer, along edge of fabric so I could...


Check the bobbin tension too. It could be too tight. Make sure you are using the right size needle for the material as well. Sheer, thin fabric needs a smaller needle, thicker material requires bigger needles. Bobbin tension is the typical problem as most think to adjust the top tension but don't check the bobbin tension.

Is your quilt peices cotton? Cotton shouldn't cause as much trouble sewing along the edge but don't use too long of a stitch length else it will seem to gather up. Puckering side to side however is a tension problem usually. With sheerer fabrics that cause a problem sometimes you can put thin paper underneath, sew through both and then pull the paper off after sewing. (thin like the iron on type interfacing type fabric but like paper).

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Are you using the same weight of thread top and bottom? Usually it is the top threading causing the problem, either it is tangled or slipped out of a guide, totally rethread and install a fresh needle. other than that you should call Brother at 1-877-276-8437

Oct 03, 2010 | Brother Sewing Machines

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