Where is the drain, and how do I get to it? Ice is under the veggie tray model rf26vabwp
Remove all the drawers and unscrew the frame that holds the drawers. Free the the drain tube (need to unscrew the clamps that hold the tube to the back wall). Pull it up from the bottom hole where it drains into the pan and free it from the top drain pan. Most likely it's plugged with **** and fungus and yecchy stuff. Clean it out and reinstall it.
SOURCE: ice build up
I had the same problem but fixed it recently. The problem originates with the drain trough mounted on the back interior wall of the fridge that slopes down into the middle. The drain tube is attached at this point and runs to the pan under the unit. This drain trough is screwed to the interior and sealed with silicone caulking. Over time the caulking breaks free from the interior wall of the fridge allowing the defrosted water to leak past the trough, collecting in the bottom of the compartment under the veggie drawer. It freezes there building up an ice ***** that eventuallly wraps around the drain tube. Any water that now runs into the tube freezes in place over time forming an ice plug preventing any drainage at all. Now the defrosted water begins to flood the interior of the fridge eventually leaking out which it did in our situtation.
There are two solutions. One is to take off the drain trough, clean it up and the interior wall of the fridge. Also thaw out the ice plug in the drain tube and make sure it is clean and drains freely. I used hot water and a syringe to inject it into the tube until the ice melted. Dry everything off. Reattach the drain trough using silicone caulking approved for kitchen/bath use. You may have to shut down the fridge and warm it up to meet the application temperature limit of the silicpne. The other solution is simpler. After cleaning and drying the drain trough, I applied an adhesive backed closed cell foam rubber gasket (3/16" thick automotive) to the back surface of the trough that sits against the interior wall of the fridge when in place. When screwed back in place, the gasket is compressed preventing water from leaking past. The fridge does not have to be warmed up for this fix. It has been in place for a few months now with now problems.
SOURCE: defrost tube doesn't drain
Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote that will help you...
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3780310-water_running_in_refrigerator_from
heatman101
SOURCE: defrost tube doesn't drain
This sounds like a problem with the self-defrost feature of the fridge. The three major components of most self defrosting freezers are: 1) defrost heater coil, 2) defrost terminator 3) defrost timer. The defrost's electric heater coil & terminator (a simple thermal sensor / switch) are in the freezer compartment in *very* close proximity to the freezer coil for the refrigerant (all of these components are usually hidden behind a protective panel) or in direct contact with the freezer coil (as is the case for the defrost terminator) The defrost timer assembly consists of a small clock motor and relay contact points. This assembly can be located anywhere the manufacturer desires.
If the timer motor has failed, or if the contact points in the assembly have shorted or failed in one position or the other - the defrost cycle will be stuck in one position (either cooling or defrosting) or the other. If the heater coil has failed, the rest of the defrost system is probably working ok, but the heater coil will fail to warm up to melt ice build up. The defrost terminator simply tells the the defroster that the cooling coil has reached a temperature high enough to have allowed the ice to melt off of it and drip into the pan & tube. If it has failed it could be telling the defrost system there is no ice built up.
The parts for this job aren't very expensive, and you can fix it yourself *IF* you have some know how, a bit of an electrical background (know how to use a meter and understand electricity) and can disassemble / reassemble the freezer area without damaging the refrigerant lines. You could buy all the parts and replace each, one by one until it starts working again, but that would be a bit expensive. A repairman coming out to do the repair might be even more though. You'll need to get schematics or the service manual for the particular Sub Zero model (probably the serial number, too) to determine the exact locations of the components and follow any troubleshooting steps if provided.
Don't choose this repair as your first appliance repair job though - it is more involved and dangerous than most others due to frostbite hazards of the refrigerant (if allowed to escape) and electric shock.
Good luck!
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