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probably need new replacement parts......... new hoods these days start out at like 60 dollars,,, i would probably replace the unit with the age of it, because the parts needed for that will exceed prob 150 dollars
Extremely likely the fan motor. get to it then , after removing fan blade,plug it in directly to a 110v outlet ,just for a second to see if it works well( don;t touch it while prefoming this test,only the plug), or jumper out the switch(with electric disconnected) momentairly to see if the fan runs after turning the electric back on.
If you're getting 120V at the lampholders, yet it's not lighting lamps that still work perfectly well in other fittings, two possibilitiesspring to mind.
One is that the cap on the bulbs isn't quite compatible with the fitting. Assuming they're some variant of Edison Screw, make sure that the centre terminal in the lampholder is sticking out far enough to touch the terminal on the bulb. Also check whether the lampholder achieves it's outer connection just with a small tab, rather than with the whole of the threaded ring. If so, make sure that this is going to touch the appropriate part of the bulb.
The other possibility is that you've got a high resistance connection somewhere - not enough of an open circuit to drop the 120 V when feeding the Megohm load presented by a meter, but more than enough to kill the supply when you have a lamp load. Only way to chase this is to use the meter on ohms range to bell out all the wiring between the lampholders and bits of the system which do work properly.
Had same problem & fuse fixed it.
Before buying a new control board (approx $160), check the 3 amp fuse located on the inside of the vent on the control board. You have to take the light/bottom housing & black plastic air chute off to see control board/fuse.
If you have 120VAC on the center contact of the light socket, and a working fan, but the bulb won't light...the most likely cause would be a disconnected neutral wire (white) in the light wiring inside the hood....assuming everything else is wired correctly.
If you're comfortable with further electrical testing...let me know, and I can describe a detailed procedure to check the status of the neutral wire. Otherwise, you may need the assistance of someone familiar with electrical troubleshooting or appliance repair.
take out switch assemby and check if the track of the pcb is blown - caused by the bulb goiung. you can often repair by soldering in wire links. bet you have 12a fuse in system - should be 3a. track has blown instead of the fuse
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