Why doesn't new bottom element come on?

The most common heating elements in an electric wtr htr are 120v 4500 watt elements. There are usually two of them. The bottom element heats about 80% of the water, and the top one heats the remaining 20% after the bottom stat is satisfied. The info you are looking for is on the rating plate of the heater. Good luck!

It should not work that way take it back and get a new unit. I am assuming it is operating on the correct voltage. If it is a 220V unit on 120V it would work that way.

if it's electric the broil element also comes on when baking or using the bottom element,it comes on for even cooking when baking so whatever you're cooking will cook on top and bottom so don't use it until you buy the new element and whenever you work on the machine unplug it,also you can damage the clock assy. and that's the computer board and those can be very expensive,i've gone in,changed out the element and it still doesn't work from the element shorting out when it broke and it takes out the computer board so hopefully this doesn't happen

sounds like your element is shorted out , on electric water heater heaters build up lime in the bottom and eventually the element overheats trying to heat water and burns in half, shorts out..drain water heater and kill power to it and remove your bottom element and check it out..also clean the scale out of bottom of tank with wire or something to pull it out so new element does'nt touch it when installed Good Luck!

Your water heater has 2 elements so its 240Volts.

1) If breaker is delivering power on one leg of the 240Volt circuit, then water heater can appear to have electricity, but tank is receiving 120V. Both 120Volt legs are needed to complete the 240V circuit. Double check for 240Volts.

2) Review electric Load.
Water heater label shows wattage of tank.
If tank is 4500Watts for example, you installed 3500 or 4500 watt elements.
With 5500 Watt elements you need 30 amp breaker and orange-colored 10 gauge wire
With 4500 Watt elements you can get by on 20 amp breaker and 12 gauge wire up to 75 feet away.

3) Check ECO red reset button on upper thermostat. If reset is tripped, then ECO is reading high temperatures. Suspects at this point are defective upper thermostat, shorted wire or bad lower element.

4) Also note that insulation and cover must be re-installed over thermostat. Thermostat reads temperature through wall of tank. If outside air circulates around thermostat, that can cause a mis-read and cause tank to overheat and ECO trips.

If you don't want to test the heater, replace both thermostats for about $25. Return the upper thermostat for a refund. Then see of problem persists.

Here's what I would do.
1. Check breaker for 240
2. Check water heater for 240 across 1 and 3 screws on upper thermostat
3. Note wiring and breaker size.
4. Note label on side of tank.

5. Look at end of new element to see wattage printed on each element. Look for sings of high heat and burning. Tighten screws on elements.

6. Check ECO reset button. Look for high-heat and burning. Tighten screws on thermostat.

7. Test upper thermostat as follows:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Electric-diagram-water-800.jpg
Test left-side #1 screw to right-side middle #4 screw. Test should read 240V at all times. If not, then ECO is tripped, thermostat is bad, or electricity is OFF

8) Water heater is cold so upper element should be ON. Test upper thermostat.
Test right-side #3 screw to left-side bottom #2 screw and it should read 240V
Test right-side #3 screw to right-side bottom #4 screw and it should read 0 volts

8. If upper thermostat checks out. Test upper element for 240 across both screws. If upper element does not read 240 when water is cold, then element is bad or there is a shorted wire between element and upper thermostat.
How to test element:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

9. Do a full troubleshoot on electric water heater
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Hello- It sounds like it is not getting 220V. I would first check the breaker and reset it a couple of times to make sure that it is sending 220V to the oven. There could be a problem with the relay board not sending enough voltage to the element. I would also check to see if the convection element is ok, it may share a common 120V wire with the bake element. If you are unsure about testing the elements then I would call a Tech out to test the voltage. The oven may have to be pulled to determine if there are any shorted wires. Good luck and best regards.

NOPE!

1. Broil element does not have welded-on legs and will touch the bottom of oven, overheating itself and will end up the same way your bake element did; besides, the bottom of the oven will corrode pretty quick
   
2. Many ovens use both elements during bake cycle
3. self clean cycle uses broil element
4. The bake and broil elements typically have different mounting brackets and screw holes ate in different places
   
5. you'd have to cover the hole, left after removing the broil element, and insulate the wires, which went to broil element
6. the ends, protruding behind the mounting bracket may have different length and different connectors. you may end up shorting the wiring to the casing, which may in turn destroy the control board if there is one
7. Bake elements usually cost only $40-$60. No jury rigging required.

Hope this helps ;)
Good luck!

If that is indeed so you have a "Short" between Phase and Earth. .. YES one should have the mains Voltage across the Load, But NEVER anything between Phase & Earth. Look think of it all like this. The Phase comes in, to a, say, a switch, from switch, to thermostat, from thermostat, to One Side of the "Load" Element. The "Other side of that "Load" Element then goes to Neutral. Circuit Complete. Two elements, wired in series would indeed split the Voltage, if wired that way. If done like this, but if wired in parallel, then, again Both would have One End, connected to Phase, & the "Other" side(s) would go to Neutral. Thus the circuit is complete. Some setups are more complex, and use two elements. but essentially all the same. The elements could be wired in series or parallel, depending on current draw/resistance. The Phase is the wire always "Broken" and the Neutral is always "Common".
BE CAREFUL.

Trying to better define the problem....

Do you have any cuts, holes or "shorting" or tin-foil/aluminum around your bottom bake heat-element? If so, you may need to replace the baking Heat Element. (Ensure you do not use aluminum foil around your heat element to prevent your oven from getting dirty)

To replace your baking heat element, with power off; remove 2 screws securing the bake element. Slightly tug and pull towards you for about 3 inches or so and disconnect the connecting wires at each end. Then completely remove the heat element and install new in reverse manner. Whats' you're model number?

An Easy Task.  Unplug stove. Remove old element by disconnecting the wires. Purchase new element and install. Plug stove back in.