The cycle stopped somewhere between draining and spinning, leaving wet clothes and a locked door. After popping the lock and starting a new cycle, the washer will start filling with water but will not agitate (and door will not unlock at pause or cancel.) When on spin only, no spinning occurs, but the timer counts down to 5 and stops (again leaving the door locked.) Is this most likely a problem with the door, the locking mechanism, a belt, or a board? Can you help me diagnose the problem? Thanks. addt'l info: the door has always seemed a little off to me, and occasionally several attempts to close it are necessary to keep it closed. I also notice that there is now a bit of water that has found it's way into the "window" in a place that doesn't look reachable.
No wash agitation or spin? try these:
WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.
Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
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Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.
mode shifter and or Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.
Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.
Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.
CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfWRyt1vj2w
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
Troubleshooting Why the Washer Won Agitate PartSelect com
SOURCE: Hi, I have an Electrolux
Im taking it that you have a squirrel cage motor.(motor without bruhes) Locate the capacitor and replace it. Most of the time its the capacitor that has malfunctioned and that will stop the spin cycle. If you have a soft start.(an electronic control), then check the brushes. Possibly need someone to help as the motor will need to be removed to gain access to the brushes. Check length. must be at least 25 mm.(otherwise not enough tension). Make sure power is pulled out when doing this repair.
SOURCE: My Electrolux EWFLW65HIW is filling
Hi The issue
is with the water inlet valve that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this
helps... Please post back for further assistance. Daniel
SOURCE: Electrolux front load washer door won't
First try to reset the lock unplugged the power machine for a few (10) minutes (maybe release the interlock door switch). If this work, them its possible that you need door latch replacement.
To do it, turn
off power, unplug at the mains. Drag the machine out so you can see
the back. Remove the 2 screws that hold the top on, pull back or tap
the top forward (depending on the model) to unclip it. Peer inside.
You will see the door switch inside the chassis exactly in line with the
door handle on the outside. See if you manually make the mechanism
release, or if you have a stubby philips screwdriver, you can probably
unscrew the switch complely.
Keep us updated.
SOURCE: regardless of what cycle i
ok. u know were the hoses are connected to the washer? ok the problem is on the other side on the inside .its a red and other is green sileniod.you hoses on the other side ,replace both parts to stop the leak...E Z to do. but unpluge washer before work
I think I have the same type of washing machine as you do. Wash is when all the clothes get agitated or mixed with soap and water (ever look in there when its washing? the water can get pretty gross looking!) So in my washer, the rinse cycle is when all that gross water is drained, and the washer spins while spraying clean water over the clothes to get rid of the dirty water and soap. I think mine does this 5 or 6 times in the cycle. Next is the spin cycle, which is when the washer spins REALLY fast to **** as much water out of the clothes as possible, so that the clothes aren't sopping wet when you put them in the dryer.
It sounds like your mom has a newer washing machine, probably a front load one, and they do seem to keep using clean water, instead of just agitating the clothes in dirty water.
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