Electric clothes dryers all have at least one sometimes several temperature switches mounted along the heater elements enclosure.
This switch is designed to detect extreme temperature and allow the the heater elements to turn of to prevent overheating.
The switches are generally only about 6 bucks a piece and have two two screws to hold them in place
When they start to go bad , they typically do just what yours is doing , shuting off and becoming stuck in the off position never clicking back on . As a field appliance tech I have repaired may of these . You could expect to pay about 120-160 for the repair if your not handy enough to take on the task.
Hope this was helpful.
Best of luck.
Joe Chiera.
SOURCE: My Roper Electric Dryer will not heat
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
SOURCE: I have a Roper Dryer Model REX3514PQO. The dryer
Sounds like you have a broken drum belt.
If you have to replace your drive belt and if you have a front loading machine.
First you will need to unplug your dryer from the electric.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley.
While you have the drum out, I would also recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
If the belt is not broken, then I would check to see if the timer switch is working properly, if not then you may need to replace it.
Good luck,
I hope this helps
SOURCE: i have a rope model red4440vq1 electric
Find your breaker box, flip the breaker that goes to your dryer off and then back on. If this does not fix it, I would call where I bought it and have them repair it under warranty. What they will find is either a bad thermal fuse and or thermal cut off or a bad element. The dryer has a year warranty on it and if the place where I bought it will not repair it for free, I would contact Roper or Whirlpool because Whirlpool is who makes Roper and let them know that the people refuse to repair it. I don't believe you will have a problem. Good luck
SOURCE: Heat is not always coming on in dryer. Roper dryer from Lowes
There are numerous temperature sensors on the dryer. Some are near the drum, some could be near the lint filter if it is located inside the dryer door. Try changing these first as they are an in expensive fix. It could also be the heating coils themselves. Highly unlikely it would be the dial, unless the dial was accidentally turned in the wrong direction.
SOURCE: MY ROPER DRYER QUIT HEATING STILLS WORKS NO HEAT
The thermal cut-off , which is the small t-stat looking piece located at the top of the element housing ( on vertical mount elements ) or the far front of the element housing ( on horizontal mount elements ) , is usually the cause for no heat .
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