Where.doi.buy.gearbox.forharry.21.inch the.drive.shaft.broken

if not a simple cable adjustment
or drive shaft isn't broken between gearbox and wheel

will have to inspect the internals of the gearbox
this is close to the walk behind gearbox
How to take apart and reassemble Peerless 700

Just disassembled one today, and it wasn't easy. There's a large washer with four tabs between the two assemblies. Insert a screwdriver into the space between it and the gear box, so you're prying metal to metal, and pry for all you're worth, moving from one tab to another. It'll eventually pop loose, and leave a few marks.... One of the two ears on the rocker is broken, so it'll mean a new gearbox for me.

The cross feed drive shaft is connected to the cross feed spindle via a coupling that resembles a universal joint that is threaded onto the end of the cross feed spindle. Either one of the roll pin holes in the drive shaft coupling has worn and the roll pin fell out or it has broken, or the coupling could have came un-screwed from the cross feed spindle. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the cross feed gearbox on and slowly pull it away from the machine and you should see the coupling I'm describing. My guess is that the roll pin broke or fell out due to wear. You can buy a new drive shaft and coupling or drill and install the next larger roll pin. Either way you should download a parts list for your machine. Just search for it, they can be downloaded free.

There is either a problem with the gears in the gearbox at the end of the shaft, or the shaft has broken, remove the gearbox from the end of the tube and see if the shaft is rotating when running the engine, if not the shaft may have broken.

your question is very brief making it hard to understand what you need to know , is your car manual or atomatic gearbox ?

if manual gear box then you may have one of many things , your clutch is worn out ,or maybe just the clutch slave cylinder , if 4wd is engaged does if move with front tire's if so rear tail shaft or diff broken .

if automatic , then you may have bands broken or blown gear box in both cases .

if 4wd drive try driving in 4wd using front wheel to drive vehicle , if it moves then rear diff or tail shaft is problem , if not gearbox is most likely dammaged

hope this helps you !

The header says that this is an electric saw which doesn't have a start procedure--just push the button and it runs. Electrics also don't have a clutch because the motor doesn't need to continue running when not cutting like a fueled engine does. Most electrics, however, have a safety device that uncouples the chain drive sprocket from the drive shaft to protect the gearbox. Remove the bar and chain, then look for a broken/disconnected drive link or spring connected with the sprocket. If the shaft itself does not turn, then there is likely problems in the gearbox. Hope this helps!

sounds like a broken shaft in the gearbox!

Please rate my help++++Thanks for using FIXYA

Several things could cause this. You are going to wind up taking the bike to a dealer for a first hand check. The shift shaft could be broken, a spring on the shaft could be broken, The main drive gear on the crank shaft could be stripped or loose on the shaft, The clutch could be totally shot, Synthetic oil in the gearbox can mess up a clutch, The shift drum could be frozen, A gear shaft could be broken. The dealer can do an external check and give an educated guess as to the cause, but it is highly likely they will need to remove the right side case for inspection. What they find there will rule out a few things and help to find the cause. If the clutch, shift shaft and primary drive gear all look good then the problem is inside the gearbox and it is going to be an expensive repair. Parts availability is likely to be a problem. The best source I am aware of is Babbitts Sports Center. Go to www.babbittsonline.com/parts/viewbybrand/parts.aspx Please rate my answer. Thanks.

You may have torn the splinds on the drive shaft at the gearbox end.Remove and check.If there ok then the diff is your problem and its incased in the gearbox housing.

there is a coupling between the gearbox and the motor, it is broken, it is easy to replace, and inexpensive
the coupler can be purchased at a local parts store
'Kenmore motor/gearbox coupler' will get it for you, there is only on for all the models.
it is an easy fix

• unplug washer
• remove trim ends of control panel
• remove phillips head screws from bottoms of control panel under where trim was
• slide control panel forweard & up about 1 inch, then flip over the back of the control panel, do not dislodge the air hose
• remove brass clips in rear corners of top with screwdriver, remember how they fit
• unplug lid switch connector
• lift body 1inch and slide forward to remove

1. front center is the motor pump and gearbox
2. do NOT disconnect hoses

• remove spring clips holding pump on to motor shaft, note where they go for reinstall. there may be a lock screw in the top right clip.
• swing pump to the left and use a string or bread bag tie to hold it out of the way.
• remove spring clips holding motor to gearbox shaft, note where they go for reinstall. there may be a lock screw in the top right clip.
• heave motor forward, to separate the coupling
• remove coupling halves from gearbox shaft and motor shaft and discard.
• using a wooden dowel and hammer, on the center of the new coupling halves, drive them onto the motor and gearbox shafts, (dont hit the fingers, they break, note the new couplings have metal centres to solve ongoing problems.)
• rotate gearbox coupling, 1 up 2 down
• rotate motor coupling, 2 up 1 down
• install rubber shock pad on gearbox coupling
• install motor on shock pad
• reinstall spring clips and lock screw if fitted (bottom first, rock the motor on rubber shock mount to ease spring clip installation)
• rotate motor shaft to align with pump input
• install pump on motor shaft
• install spring clips and lock screw if fitted

reinstall body in reverse order

it takes less time to do the repair than it takes to type this