How do i fix my 110 sized engine - Pit SSR 110CC Pro Beginner Bike

fuel plus air filters, cleaning and reseating

The B&S unit uses an AGM battery. You can get one at Interstate. Use the 35 amp-hr size for this unit.

is it a manual gearbox
or automatic transmission
what year and model and engine size
there were six engine models

Not sure where you are from or what size the engine is but your probably looking at a price between $75 and $110

Specifications: Engine Type: 1449 cc, 4-Stroke, Air Cooled, V-Twin
Engine Bore and Stroke: 95.3 mm x 101.6 mm
Valves 2 valves/cylinder
Claimed Horsepower: 67 hp (50 kW) @ 5200 rpm
Maximum Torque: 110 Nm (81.1 ft. lbs) @ 3100 rpm
Transmission type: 5 speed
Final Drive: Belt

Tire - Front: 130/90-16
Tire - Rear: 130/90-16
Brakes - Front: dual 292 mm discs with 4-piston calipers
Brakes - Rear: single 292 mm disc with 4-piston calipers

Sizes can vary depending on what has been done to the bike.
Ride safe and loud pipes save lives.

What engine do you have (size)? Valve adjustment is generally a thing of the past after the introduction of hydraulic lifters (no adjustment). In 1994 your engine should have hydraulic lifters and are not adjustable. Is this a high performance engine? New camshaft, lifter, and rocker set that are adjustable?

Here it is d-link dwa-110 drivers for windows xp. The file size is 9.6 mb, and zip format. You'll need winzip or winrar to unzip the drivers.
Good luck.
Thanks for using FixYa.

Keeping up with the Drivers is a very good idea, it will fix little problems that come along from time to time. Try resetting the printer defaults by entering the menu system and exiting, at piont of exit don't save permanently but cycle around to load defaults and exit. Go back in and set the printer up again, this time exit saving permanently.

Something as simple as a different tire size can cause the abs to go nuts. I even had it where the two tires were the same size. But a different brand name. Each manufacture has their own tire sizing so not all tires a equal in size. Even though it says on the side of the tire that they are the same size.

Sometimes the cooper inside the insulation of the wires going to the sensors corrodes. Especially on the front units. It reads more ohms than normal but not open and is very intermittent. However moving the wires my make it work for a while. That's why replacing bearings seems to fix the problem but it comes back after a while.

You can test the speed sensors yourself...
Front sensor specs:
956 to 1240 ohms in 41 to 110 degree weather
at least 100mV AC (NOT DC!) volts when hub is spun by hand
Rear sensor specs:
950 to 1300 ohms in 41 to 110 degree weather
At least 100mV AC (NOT DC!) volts when hub is spun by hand

Here is some information from service bulletins that could be related to the problem. The traction control, antilock brakes, and tire inflation monitor all use wheel speed sensor input.

This first bulletin seems like it could be the problem because engine movement is involved:

GM Corporate Bulletin 00-06-04-049B
This Bulletin covers a problem that can cause multiple failures, one of which is an Antilock brake problem, and covers 2000-2003 Impala and Monte Carlo built prior to 2/03.
Check to make sure the wiring harness adjacent to the AC accumulator/dryer is not rubbing against the ac accumulator chaffing through the insulation of the wires in the harness.

GM Corporate Bulletin 03-05-25-008 overview:
GM front wheel speed sensor harness replacement - 2001-2003 Buick Century, Regal; 2001-2003 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; 2001-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue; 2001-2004 Pontiac Grand Prix
This bulletin is about inspecting the harness going to the front wheel speed sensor for wear from contact with front suspension parts.
Repair harnesses/leads are available that can be spiced onto the main harness.
2001-2003 impala & Monte Carlo – Right side - 10340313
2001-2003 impala & Monte Carlo – Left side - 10340314

SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:ANTILOCK:ABS WARNING LIGHT
• TSB #030525008 -- INTERMITTENT/CONSTANT ANTI-LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM (ABS) MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) ILLUMINATED. *TT (NHTSA ID #10004719, OCTOBER 01 2003)

Hope helped.

The air pressure on your system is actually controlled by the orifice size at the tip. The tip wears very fast and the air pressure will drop accordingly. Install a new tip and retest pressure. The only way to increase pressure as the tip wears is to increase the rpm of the motor/engine. Also check for leaks in the system. If possible, start out with a smaller tip and lower engine rpm a bit then increase rpm as the tip wears. You can also play with the grit size as the tip wears. Slightly larger grit/sand will work better as the tip size increases and pressure drops. Good luck with you sandblasting project.