How should I install a new co2 canister without losing air pressure?

Put a finger up into the hole the CO2 canister screws into while you repeatedly push down on the carbonation button and up against the seat of the CO2 socket. You should feel a plunger moving up and down against the pressures of your finger and the button. If you don't feel this plunger, the SodaStream valve is either stuck or faulty. Make sure the CO2 cylinders are screwed up at least finger tight against the top of the socket.

The crosman 1008 does indeed fire pellets! NOT BBs. ONLY pellets.

is the canister sealing properly? The air enters the canister under high pressure and it should slow down greatly in there so the heavier (dust) particles will fall to the bottom of the canister and the air should then pass through the filter under a reduced pressure. If the air is easily escaping the canister area without slowing down the dust cannot settle. It should look like a cyclone in the canister, if it's not swirling in one direction but rather bouncing around, look at the inlet to the canister for build up or an obstruction also. If the canister is not sealing the the air will remain moving rapidly and carry the dust along with it. I would also check your filter for a tare along the seam.

i am almost 100 percent sure that it is just a seal, CO2 is bad for drying out seals. Replace the seal and see if that fixes the problem, and if it does, go get some oil for firearms and put it on the seal before every 3 CO2 canisters.

Here's the procedure:

Purge Control Solenoid Valve (PCSV) Line Inspection
1. Ignition "OFF".
2. Disconnect the hose leading from the PCSV to the intake manifold at PCSV.
3. Using a vacuum pump, apply specified vacuum(Approx. 15 in, Hg) to the manifold side of the valve and verify PCSV holds vacuum.
4. Ignition "ON" & Engine "OFF".
5. Install scantool and select "EVAP PURGE VALVE" on the Actuation Test mode.
6. Activates "EVAP PURGE VALVE" by pressing "STRT(F1)" key.
7. Verify PCSV release vacuum while valve is activating(should hear a faint click from PCSV).
8. Repeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to ensure PCSV reliability.
9. Is PCSV working properly?
YES
? Go to "Canister Closing Valve(CCV) Line Inspection" procedure.
NO
? Verify arrow on PCSV is pointing towards intake manifold. If it is not, reverse installation. Reinstall as necessary.
? If OK, check for cracks or damage in hose connecting PCSV and intake manifold. Repair or replace as necessary.
? If OK, test with a new PCSV and check for proper operation. If problem is corrected, replace PCSV and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
Canister Closing Valve(CCV) Line Inspection
1. Return vehicle to original condition.
2. Ignition "OFF".
3. Disconnect the hose connecting Canister Closing Valve(CCV) to canister.
4. Blow air to the canister side of the valve and verify air escapes to the air filter side.
5. Turn ignition on and jumper a wire to GND(back probe) at terminal 2 of the ECM connector(CCV valve should click).
6. Blow air into hose and verify air does not escape.
7. Repeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to ensure CCV reliability.
8. Is CCV working properly?
YES
? Go to "Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Inspection" procedure.
NO
? Check for cracks or damage in hose connecting CCV and canister. Repair or replace as necessary.
? If OK, replace CCV. If CCV was stuck closed, inspect all lines and canister for liquid fuel. Replace any contaminated components and blow out lines and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Inspection
1. Start engine and install scan tool.
2. Monitor "FUEL TANK PRESSURE" parameter on the current data list with depressing increasing engine speed.
Specification : Signal value will vary between -2mmHg to 2 mmHg depending on variation in engine speed.
A. Approx. 0~2 mmHg(2.5V) at Ig. On
B. Approx. 0 mmHg at 1400rpm .
C. Approx. -2 mmHg at 4000rpm.

3. Is signal value within specification?
YES
? Go to "PCSV to Canister Line Inspection" procedure.
NO
? Check for cracks or damage in hose connecting canister and fuel pump. Repair or replace as necessary.
? Check for open or short in FTPS harness. Repair as necessary.
If OK, test with a new FTPS and check for proper operation. If problem is corrected, replace FTPS and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
PCSV to Canister Line Inspection
1. Check for leakage in hose.
(1) Disconnect the hose leading from the canister to the PCSV at canister.
(2) Using a vacuum pump, apply specified vacuum[Approx. 10cmHg(4 inHg)] to the manifold side of the valve and verify PCSV holds vacuum.
(3) Monitor vacuum pressure for 1 minute. After 1 minute, pressure should not drop more than 2cmHg(0.8 inHg).
(4) Is pressure within specification?
YES
? Go to "2. Check for leakage in canister" procedure.
NO
? Check for cracks or damage in hose connecting PCSV and canister. Repair or replace as necessary and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.

2. Check for leakage in canister.


Thoroughly check all fuel vapor hoses and hose clamps between:
1. Canister and fuel tank.
2. Canister and CCV.
3. Canister and PCSV.

If NG, replace hose or clamps as necessary and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
If OK, go to next step as below.
(1) Disconnect hose clamps and remove canister assembly .
(2) Block the hose of between:
A. Canister and fuel filler neck.
B. Canister and CCV.
C. Canister and PCSV.

(3) Apply maximum of 10cmHg(4 inHg) pressure through fuel tank port from canister.
(4) With system sealed and pressurized, check for leaks.
(5) Were any leak(s) found?
YES
? Repair or replace leaking system component(s) and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
NO
? Go to "Fuel Tank Line Inspection" procedure.

Fuel Tank Line Inspection
1. Relieve the fuel system pressure and remove the fuel tank.


Before removing the fuel tank, make sure the fuel hoses are not leaking.

2. Block all of the following outlets:
(1) Fuel lines.
(2) Fuel filler neck.

3. Apply maximum of 10cmHg(4 inHg) pressure to the EVAP. hose at the fuel tank. Then, pinch the EVAP. hose to retain the pressure.
4. Check the suspect area for leaks with a soap solution.
5. Were any leak(s) found?
YES
? Repair or replace leaking system component(s) and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
NO
? Check for poor connection between ECM and component: backed out terminal, improper mating, broken locks or poor terminal to wire connection. Repair as necessary and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.

If you are using CO2 it may be affecting the system. With a gun down straight, you could draw liquid CO2 into the internals. A siphon tube can be installed in a CO2 tank to stop or manage this. If you have access to someone's air tank, try using HPA (high pressure air aka nitrogen). If it fires fine with air you have deducted that the CO2 is to blame. Simple. Switch to air. It's better for the gun anyway! Now if the air didnt change anything I would think a component of the response trigger system is to blame. I am not familiar with the response trigger( I use E-grips) but I would think that a part that may slide or move forward or bak when you lift the gun up would be to blame. Most local shops should be able to diagnose the problem. I did find an installation video by Tippmann on youtube.
Here is a link.
A5 response kit installation

Can use argon/co2 mix or CO2 the wire usually has the gas named on the lable

Basically speaking, air is air. Now it's the pressure that's the concern. co2 bottles use a regular valve that has a pin in it and opens to allow the gas through. High Pressure Air - HPA is the same concept but since the pressure with co2 is built up by expanding gas, HPA has to do it with pressure only. So the tank is pressurized a LOT higher than co2, but there's a regulator on the tank valve to bring the working pressure into the marker to the proper level.

So yes, you can use "air", but you need to make sure it has the right output for your marker. (i.e. not a low pressure HPA valve.).

You'll have the same problem though, getting someone to fill the bottle. Check with your local airsmith and paintball fields and stores. If they have co2 they would have HPA, but some do only deal with HPA since it's "easier" in some cases.

You may have to check around. Sometimes hardware stores have a small section in back, or you can check with the paintball places around to see if anyone in your area is equipped. Some teams have their own tanks, especially if there's not a place to get fills locally.

There's also online communities like Brigade and various paintball sites where you can check around for other players. Someone may have a co2 fill tank, a scuba tank for HPA, or a group that gets tanks together to make a run and get them filled somewhere.

Good luck!

Play hard, play safe, play with honor!

8^)

Ya your better spending the extra money on something with quality

1 Chrome Rail (for attachment to Worktop)
4 Self-Tapping Screws (to attach chrome rail)
1 CO2 Cylinder Support Stand
1 CO2 Cylinder (empty)
1 CO2 Regulator (high/low pressure gauges)
1 CO2 Air Line Hose (red)
2 CO2 Air Line Hose Connectors (black)
1 Beer Keg Coupler
1 Beer Tower Unit (complete with faucet, hose and wing nut)
1 Rubber Washer (to be installed inside wing nut)
1 Beer Tower (Quick Connect) Bayonet Attachment (beer tower installation)
4 Machine Screws (to attach bayonet to beer tower)
1 Gasket (beer tower base)
1 Pull Handle (beer tower faucet)
1 Beer Keg Stand (required for 30 liter keg installations only)
1 Protective Plate (refrigerator cabinet floor)
2 Cantilever Wire Shelves (conversion to all refrigerator application)
1 Chill 'n Tap Exterior Cabinet Plug (located on worktop)
1 CO2 Air Line Hose Plug (located exterior rear cabinet)
1 Plastic Drip Tray (2 piece)

1. Remove Worktop: Using a Phillips Screwdriver, remove the
three screws located on the front underside edge of the
worktop and the three screws located at the rear (back)
side of the worktop.
See Fig's. 1 & 2
Remove the worktop from the cabinet and position the
worktop on top of the cabinet so that the front corners
are staggered across the front corners of the cabinet.
2. Installation of Top Rail: Attach the chrome rail to the work
top using four self-tapping screws from the underside of the
worktop through the pre-drilled holes. (attach the front ends
of the rail first)
3. Re-Install Wo r k t o p : Install the front of the worktop onto the
cabinet, then lower the rear side of the worktop over the
backside of the cabinet. Secure using the same screws
removed earlier. (the smaller screws at the front the larger
screws at the rear)
4. Installation of CO2 Cylinder Support: Install the cylinder
support onto the four studs located on the exterior back
wall of the cabinet. (no tools required) Align the holes in
the cylinder support with the studs and push down firmly.
See Fig. 3
5. Installation of CO2 Cylinder: Install your " fully charged"
CO2 cylinder into the support stand. IMPORTANT NOTICE:
ALWAYS EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN
HANDLING PRESSURIZED C02 CYLINDERS:
6. Installation of C02 Regulator: Attach the CO2 Regulator to
the C02 cylinder by screwing the regulator nut onto cylinder
valve and tighten (snug) using an adjustable wrench.
7. Installation of C02 Air Line Hose to Regulator: Attach one
end of the (red) air line hose to the hose barb connection
on the CO2 regulator. Secure hose by using one of the two
(self locking) black plastic snap on clamps provided.
(use pliers to snap the clamp tight to assure that there are
no leaks)
See Fig. 5
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5


CHI
1. Remove Worktop: Using a Phillips Screwdriver, remove the
three screws located on the front underside edge of the
worktop and the three screws located at the rear (back)
side of the worktop.
See Fig's. 1 & 2
Remove the worktop from the cabinet and position the
worktop on top of the cabinet so that the front corners
are staggered across the front corners of the cabinet.
2. Installation of Top Rail: Attach the chrome rail to the work
top using four self-tapping screws from the underside of the
worktop through the pre-drilled holes. (attach the front ends
of the rail first)
3. Re-Install Wo r k t o p : Install the front of the worktop onto the
cabinet, then lower the rear side of the worktop over the
backside of the cabinet. Secure using the same screws
removed earlier. (the smaller screws at the front the larger
screws at the rear)
4. Installation of CO2 Cylinder Support: Install the cylinder
support onto the four studs located on the exterior back
wall of the cabinet. (no tools required) Align the holes in
the cylinder support with the studs and push down firmly.
See Fig. 3
5. Installation of CO2 Cylinder: Install your " fully charged"
CO2 cylinder into the support stand. IMPORTANT NOTICE:
ALWAYS EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN
HANDLING PRESSURIZED C02 CYLINDERS:
6. Installation of C02 Regulator: Attach the CO2 Regulator to
the C02 cylinder by screwing the regulator nut onto cylinder
valve and tighten (snug) using an adjustable wrench.
7. Installation of C02 Air Line Hose to Regulator: Attach one
end of the (red) air line hose to the hose barb connection
on the CO2 regulator. Secure hose by using one of the two
(self locking) black plastic snap on clamps provided.
(use pliers to snap the clamp tight to assure that there are
no leaks)
See Fig. 5
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
LL'N TAP ACCESSORIES (included with this unit)