How do I replace a push rod - Kohler CH25 PA-CH730-0040 Command Gasoline Engine

Here are a couple of videos of dos and donts of replacing your push rods.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUScanpZIDI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39qKCiphOWU https://www.justanswer.com/buick/7qfyb-buick-century-custom-need-diagram-push-rod-order.html

Short push rods are for intake, long push rods are for exhaust

There is no way to repair push rods. If they are bent they need to be replaced. However, the hundred-dollar question is "Why were they bent?" The only thing that will normally bend a push rod is if the pistons hit the valves and compressed and bent the rods. If the push rods are bent, you should go the extra distance to inspect the valves/pistons for damage as well.

try opening the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder so that you are not trying to press against the pressure plate when you push the rod into the master cylinder.

5 million made.
it's in the fsm book
posted here over 300 times.
are you asking , how to set rockers ?

chapter 9 page 27
------------------text fsm---------------------
INSPECTION
Inspect the pivot surface area of each rocker arm.
Replace any that are scuffed, pitted, cracked or
excessively worn.
Inspect the valve stem tip contact surface of each
rocker arm and replace any rocker arm that is deeply
pitted.
Inspect each push rod end for excessive wear and
replace as required. If any push rod is excessively
worn because of lack of oil, replace it and inspect the
corresponding hydraulic tappet for excessive wear.
Inspect the push rods for straightness by rolling
them on a flat surface or by shining a light between
the push rod and the flat surface.
A wear pattern along the length of the push rod is
not normal. Inspect the engine cylinder head for
obstruction if this condition exists.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: This procedure can be done with the engine
in or out of the vehicle.
(1) Lubricate the ball ends of the push rods with
Mopart Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent and
install push rods in their original locations. Ensure
that the bottom end of each push rod is centered in
the tappet plunger cap seat.
(2) Using Mopart Engine Oil Supplement, or
equivalent, lubricate the area of the rocker arm that
the pivot contacts. Install rocker arms, pivots and
bridge above each cylinder in their originally position
(Fig. 23).
(3) Loosely install the capscrews through each
bridge.
(4) At each bridge, tighten the capscrews alternately,
one turn at a time, to avoid damaging the
bridge. Tighten the capscrews to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(5) Install the engine cylinder head cover (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).

hold up rod bearings were did you get that?lets take it from the top.camshaft lobs move lifters on rotation,which lifters move push rods,push rods push valves up and down,which other side of valves push up and down valve stems,which open and close exhaust and intake stems.ok now were clear on that to see your push rods.take off your valve covers on side with tick.1.check for valve loosness.need a feeler gauge for this and specs for you truck to do this.because ticking is mostly associated with valve loosness or to tight.2.if rod is bad loosin valves but not off and inspect the rods for bends.on a flat surface.replace if bend.also make sure they to go back in same place.and repeat step 1.finally noise continues need to take in and checked possible internal damage.

The only push rod in your bike is the clutch push rod. It is on the left side of the engine and between the flywheel and the chain sprocket. Just remove the left side chain cover to gain access to the rod. Pull the rod out of the center casing then use a screwdriver to pry the old seal out. Then just put a new seal in its' place and re-install the rod. The rod will not need to be replaced unless it is bent or is pitted from rust where it runs through the seal.

This can be a big zero on the fun scale, so get ready. First place your bike on a lift (borrowed or owned, just get one) with rear wheel off the ground. Now remove your air cleaner and maybe your filter. Now drop the pushrood tubes one at a time, not all at once (pick a jug only one). With the bike in gear and holding the pushrod tube up so you can see the bottom part of the push rod, rotate engine until you are on flat side of the cam. You'll know when the push rod is as low as it can be and the wheel moves a little and the push rod doesn't. Your push rods have a jam nut on them and the pushrod is not round in places you must loosen the jam nut and then holding both pieces of the pushrod you can screw the lower end of the push rod into the other piece. This will shorten the push rod. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THE JAM NUT. If you do you will be cussin for a month! Now you can shorten the push rod enough to get it out. Work only one cylinder at a time and yes note which push rod goes where as most HD ones have different diameter ends.
Soak you lifters in oil overnight, not for most of the morning or a few hours, but overnight. Once you get both push rods out use your fingers, a small pick, or what ever to pull the lifters out. Replace the lifters, O rings for push rod tubes, put the tubes over the push rod and looking at the lifters make absolutely sure they are in the lowest position they can be, adjust you push rods. If they are HD Screamin Eagle ones you extent the push rods to what we call zero lash, that is until they make firm contact with the lifter but are not compressing the lifter. this is just something you gotta do to figure out how. Then once you have zero lash HD sez unscrew or lengthen the push rod by holding the top piece with a wrench and unscrewing the bottom piece 3 and one half turns, then lock it up with the jam nut. Put push rod tubes together move to the next cyclinder.
IMPORTANT THINGS TO MAKE SURE YOU DO:
Work on a completely COLD bike!!
Soak lifters over night
Use new O rings
Adjust push rods absolutely at zero lash + 3.5 turns (if HD) when lifter is lowest in bore.

This is a painful process cause after things get a few hours on them you WILL want to go back in and readjust. I am truely sorry this is such a pain. I hope this helps and good luck,

JP

This happened to me,the engine sat for some time and the valves were varnished with stale fuel,they stuck in the guides.This bent the push rod and it was only running on one cylinder.The missing push rod worked its way into the crankcase through an oil passage . I took the engine sump of and found the push-rod. I cleaned removed the head,cleaned the valves and guides replaced push rods and gasket and it ran fine after that.I use fuel stabilizer now,it keeps the varnish from forming.

The clutch lever must have been pushed in when i tried to install the push rod the first time so the push rod didn't get pushed in all the way.