Place amp meter into circuit to determine amp draw at time of reset trip. If higher than 15 amps suspect leaking check valve or failing capacitor. If it trips at lower than 15 amps suspect weak reset breaker. Good luck
SOURCE: Tripping Circuit Breaker
Same problem I have. I think the element or thermostat is gone. You will have to replace them. Here are the part numbers repectively:
4501649
4160214
SOURCE: high amp start up draw
I don't care what kind of stories Craftsman tells, their numbers don't add up.
One horsepower is ~ = 740 watts of energy.
2.5 hp equates to a steady-state power consumption of ~1850W and this could be 50% higher during the first second or two after turn-on.
Your 15 Amp circuit is pushed to the limit by that power level; 15 Amps X 120 VAC = 1800W
And, motors aren't a breakeven game; part of the power they draw is wasted in heat.
9 amps steady-state would be a power consumption of over 6kw which cannot be right.
Either your measurements or the motor is faulty.
SOURCE: My new maytag centennial electric keeps tripping
Hi Matt
I'm not sure that swapping out the breakers to higher rated ones will give you a solution so I'll throw in 2 cents to see if my advice holds true. Let's start by asking this. Is the appliance "rated" at 220 volts at 30 amps per leg. I assume this from your post as to what it has been rated. Next - How long is the "run" of wire from the junction box to the outlet where the appliance plugs in? This usually does not matter in most households but if the run is of significant length it may need a larger gage wire to support the current draw of the appliance. Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, are the lugs and wire connectors tight at the outlet, the plug, and the breaker box. A loose connection will ramp up the current fast. This is assuming the first two items were met. Tell me if any of this helps and we'll work it out from there.
Thanks.
Len
SOURCE: compessor trips circuit
IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR COMPRESSOR IS NOT UNLOADING WHEN IT SHUTS DOWN. YOU SHOULD HEAR AN AIR RELIEF SOUND TYPICALLY ON THE SIDE OF THE PRESSURE SWITCH WHEN IT SHUTS DOWN. ITS A SMALL VALVE WITH A TIRE VALVE THAT THE LEVER HITS AND RELIEVES THE PRESSURE FROM THE DISCHARGE LINE AND THE TOP OF THE PISTON.
YOUR CHECK VALVE COULD BE BAD LETTING PRESSURE BACK UP BUT IT WOULD BE BLOWING AIR OUT ALL THE TIME WHEN SHUT DOWN.
IF YOU THINK THE VALVE OR SWITCH IS WORKING AND WANT TO CHECK IT, LET THE COMPRESSOR BUILD UP AND SHUT DOWN, LISTEN FOR THE AIR RELIEF,IF IT DOESNT THEN CRACK THE DISCHARGE LINE AND SEE IF THERES ANY PRESSURE, MANUALLY RELIEVE THE PRESSURE THEN USE SOME AIR AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS. REPAIR VALVE ON THE SIDE OR CHANGE PRESSURE SWITCH $30-40.00. HOPE THIS HELPS. PLEASE REPLY. JODY
SOURCE: Wiper fuse keeps blowing intermittently.
It looks like the wire circuit for the wiper motor is touching the car body when shaken so the only thing you can do is shake the wires and terminals yourself while engine is running then maybe you can pinpoint where the earthing is.
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