Hello guest.
Before you attempt to repair a microwave oven yourself, you have to have and know how to use a multimeter, whether it is analog or digital. You need to be able to determine what components to check and what to look for. If the main fuse is blown (open) you need to check all of the components in the high voltage circuit before you replace the main fuse. You MUST know how to discharge the high voltage capacitor before you put your hands or test leads in the general area of the high voltage section. It can easily kill you if you are not careful to respect it properly. I take it that the unit is "dead". No display, and it acts like it is unplugged from the wall. If the main fuse is good, there are typically two or three temperature or thermal 'fuses' besides the main 'line' or 'monitor' fuse. Some of these are self resetting and some are a 'one time' type. Before you even open up the microwave, you need to verify that the power to it is valid. I don't mean to sound condescending but I don't know your level of familiarity or experience. To gain access to the area behind the control panel, you typically need to remove the louvre or the top panel above the door and control panel area. With that out of place, you should see one to three screws holding the control panel escutcheon in place either on the top or the side of the panel. Some panels are mounted differently, hinge outward, hinge down, etc. You may or may not find the fuse holder once inside that access area. Again, BE CAREFUL and make sure that there is no electrical power in the area that you are working. Good luck.....
SOURCE: GE microwave oven - just stopped stopped working
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
NOTE: There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: How do I open the front panel of GE Spacemaker 2.0 ? Fuse?
there are screws either on top of or in the grille that allow you to remove it. after screws are removed, open the door, pull lightly toward you starting at the control side if it does not pull, then it may have to be pushed toward the hinge side, then pulled out. behind the grille, is the screw attaching the control panel. lift the panel up before pulling out. Just to add a thought,if the display lights up it is probably not the fuse, although, in some models there is a high voltage fuse, it is pretty rare.
SOURCE: How do I replace the
I would say the lamp popped and took the fuse, so you will need to replace the lamp also. Dead appliance, power on wall outlet. YOUR
SAFETY IS PARRAMOUNT! Attempt
this only if you are competent. If
your appliance has absolutely no functions at all, remove it from the
mains supply, remove the case and see where the mains lead goes in to
the appliance and follow the cable until you find the main fuse.
ONLY
USE THE SAME TYPE AND RATING OF FUSE TO REPLACE IT.
The usual
cause of this fuse failure is the door switches are contaminated or
sticking. Check the door switches before putting power back on to the
appliance.
Hope this helps.
SOURCE: GE SPACEMAKER OVER RANGE MICROWAVE MOD
DANGER! HIGH VOLTAGE!
Remember that even when the unit is unplugged some of the microwave parts still carry a deadly voltage!
OK...now that the message is out of the way....you should be o.k. checking the fuse and door switches.
Here is a video on how to remove the control panel.Do this and the ceramic fuse should be located just inside the unit.
Click on the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHcO5HBenK8
Also if the fuse is good...just inside of the cavity of which the control panel was are three door switches. These switches are safety switches. You can see where they are located by looking at the far right hand side of your door...the door latches go into a slot...the slots are where the door interlock switches are located.
Check the fuse first and then the switches if fuse checks good.
If you have any other questions or concerns please ask.
Keith
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