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Step 1: Pry and remove the retaining pins (3) that secure the interior panel to the UNDERSIDE of the glove compartment area (near the PASSENGER'S feet).
Step 2: Disconnect the blower motor's wiring harness (1).
Step 3: Loosen and remove the 7/32 mounting bolts (3) that secure the blower motor to the vehicle. Pull the blower motor from the vehicle.
Step 4: Disconnect the wiring harness (1) mounted just to the LEFT of the resistor.
Step 5: Loosen and remove the 7/32 mounting bolts (3) that secure the resistor to the vehicle.
NOTE: You only need to LOOSEN the rear bolts, as the resistor will slide free without completely removing them!
Step 6: You can now slide and remove the resistor.
Step 7: Mount the new resistor by tightening the 7/32 mounting bolts (3). Connect the wiring harness (1).
Step 8: Reattach the blower motor by tightening the 7/32 mounting bolts (3).
Step 9: Connect the blower motor's wiring harness (1).
Step 10: Re-engage the retaining pins (3) to secure the interior panel to the UNDERSIDE of the glove compartment area.
Tightening chain is performed by adjusting the bar. Two bolts generally hold the bar in place. Loosen these. Make sure that chain has enough play to easily move by hand. If it sticks, it's too tight. Then tighten the bar, check the chain oil, and cut wood.
Most alternators are connected to the engine block by a metal bracket. One end of the alternator connects to a harness pivot point (a bit like your elbow), while the other connects to another bracket with a slot a few inches long (and curved). The bolt that goes through the curved/slotted bracket needs to be loosened (NOT removed), enough so you can pull the alternator in the direction which tightens the alternator belt... and when you get to that tight point, you quickly tighten the alternator tension bolt that you had previously loosened. (this is usually accomplished much easier with a tool that will allow you to easily pull the alternator tight while you tighten the bolt, or by having your Bestie there to do one action whilst you perform the other). After you are finished, you should check the belt's recommended tension parameter to make certain it's not too tight (which will cause the alternator bearings to wear-out quickly), or not too lose (which may cause the belt to squeak and/or your lights/power to dim with any drain on the alternator). Normally the only pain with this job is the placement of the alternator. If it's on the top of the engine assembly (most are), then it will be easier. If it's not, then it won't... but this just means you'll have tighter quarters to work within. While you're in there, I'd check the alternator with an amp-meter / volt-meter to make sure it's still doing its job. It does not sound as though your alternator is connected via a serpentine-belt, so I won't broach that topic. Good luck.
Most alternators are connected to the engine block by a metal bracket. One end of the alternator connects to a harness pivot point (a bit like your elbow), while the other connects to another bracket with a slot a few inches long (and curved). The bolt that goes through the curved/slotted bracket needs to be loosened (NOT removed), enough so you can pull the alternator in the direction which tightens the alternator belt... and when you get to that tight point, you quickly tighten the alternator tension bolt that you had previously loosened. (this is usually accomplished much easier with a tool that will allow you to easily pull the alternator tight while you tighten the bolt, or by having your Bestie there to to one action whilst you perform the other). After you are finished, you should check the belt's recommended tension parameter to make certain it's not too tight (which will cause the alternator bearing to wear-out quickly), or not too lose (which may cause the belt to squeak or your lights/power to dim with a drain on the alternator). Good luck. Normally the only pain with this job is the placement of the alternator. If it's on the top of the engine assembly (most are), then it will be easier. If it's not, then it won't... but this just means you'll have tighter quarters to work within.
Open the hoodto access the engine compartment. Unscrew the battery cables from the batteryterminals with a socket wrench.
2
Locate thealternator on the front of the engine. The engine is side-mounted so thealternator will be pointing towards the passenger's side fender on the top leftcorner. Then locate the tensioner pulley under the alternator.
3
Insert a baresocket into the square hole on the tensioner pulley. Loosen the tensionerpulley with the socket wrench by pushing the tensioner down to loosen the belt.Remove the belt from the alternator pulley.
4
Disconnect thewiring at the top of the alternator by pulling off the harness. The remainingwiring will be attached to a stud. Unscrew the stud with a socket wrench thenpull off the wiring.
5
Unscrew thethree bolts with a socket wrench that secure the alternator to the mountingbracket. There is one bolt on top, one on the bottom and one on the right-handside of the alternator. Pull the alternator out of the mounting bracket.
6
Position thenew alternator into the mounting bracket. Start threading the three bolts byhand. Tighten the bolts with the socket wrench once all the bolts are started.
7
Push theboot-shaped wiring harness onto the new alternator. It will lock into placewith a click. Unscrew the nut on the stud with the socket wrench then place theremaining wiring lead onto the stud. Tighten the nut over the wiring with thesocket wrench.
8
Loosen thetensioner pulley by pushing it down with the bare socket wrench. Place the beltover the alternator pulley then release the socket wrench. The tensioner willautomatically tighten the belt.
9
Connect thepositive and negative cables on the battery. Tighten the cables with the socketwrench.
10
Start the carto test the new alternator. Allow the car to run for five to 10 minutes. Shutthe car off and let it sit for an hour. Attempt to start the car. If the carstarts, then the alternator is working correctly. Close the hood when done.
Remove the radiator grille. Refer to Radiator Grille Replacement.
Loosen only, do not remove, the lower outside hidden headlamp bolt (2).
Pull the lamp assembly slightly forward to access the electrical connection.
Disconnect the forward lamp harness main electrical connector from the headlamp harness.
1
Headlamp Screws (Qty: 2) Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section. Tighten Tighten the screws to 6 N·m (53 lb in)
2
Headlamp Screw (Hidden) Tighten Tighten the screws to 6 N·m (53 lb in)
3
Headlamp Housing Support Tip Depress the housing support tab with a flat-bladed tool downward in order to release the headlamp assembly from the support.
Remove the radiator grille. Refer to Radiator Grille Replacement.
Loosen only, do not remove, the lower outside hidden headlamp bolt (2).
Pull the lamp assembly slightly forward to access the electrical connection.
Disconnect the forward lamp harness main electrical connector from the headlamp harness.
1
Headlamp Screws (Qty: 2) Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section. Tighten Tighten the screws to 6 N·m (53 lb in)
2
Headlamp Screw (Hidden) Tighten Tighten the screws to 6 N·m (53 lb in)
3
Headlamp Housing Support Tip Depress the housing support tab with a flat-bladed tool downward in order to release the headlamp assembly from the support. his.
disconnect the positive terminal from battery. loosen belt tensioner to loosen belt. remove harness connection and bolts. remove old alternator, put new one in place. put bolts back on. tighten bolts. plug in harness. put belt back into tensioner, pull it tight so there is very little play in blelt and tighten. reconnect the battery.
Set the bike on its center stand, then loosen the rear axle by removing cotter pin from hex nut and loosening the nut. There are two adjustment bolts, with lock nuts - one on each side of the rear axle. They are easily work with from the rear of the bike. Loosen the lock nuts and turn the adjustment bolts clockwise. this will draw the rear axle (wheel) backwards - tightening the chain. Take care to turn each side the same amount, so the rear wheel remains straight. Usually the flex in the chain should be about a quarter inch. After adjusting, tighten lock nuts to hold position of rear axle and tighten the axle nut, replace cotter pin.
If you say that the chuck can not be tighten only, then I would say that the left thread screw that keeps the chuck to the tool have become unloosen and can not allow the chuck to be tighten. The remedy for that is to unloosen the chuck as much as you can, then tight the left thread screw but rotating it left till the bottom and then the chuck will work. All the above if the chuck can not be tighten...
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