Check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
SOURCE: refrigerator cools freezer wont model rb215labp
I know that model very well and I would like to know how long you have owned it and will you or can you find someone that can perform some electrical test fo you. When Samsung made that brand they made a major mistake on the defrost heater elements. They were woven into the evaporator coil. If less that 5 years old it should fall under sealed parts warranty. When I look at a refrigerator from here there are so many possibilities of what is going on that I ask that this is not where to rate my solution. I see that you mentioned the digital controls but are they visible or gone whacked out? Sea Breeze
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Hi,
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heatman101
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