Bosch intelligent frost free 44

I would have it checkrd by a refrigeration engineer.

Check and or clean the diverter flap in the back of the refrigerator make sure all vents inside are clear
and not blocked ,If this does not fix the problem
It could be the servo motor for the diverter

you can go online and search for the part using make and model their are 100s of appliance parts suppliers or go to bosch site and either order or request a supplier by you

Gas in fridges and feezers are expensive to refill, if the unit is more than a few years old may be better to replace, if less than 12 months old should contact seller under warrenty.

Thank you Stefan29, really helpful!

We have the same and I think it is because the freezer door bounces open when we shut the fridge door. Then the freezer compartment ices up, the fan clogs up with ice and cannot blow cold air into the fridge, and the fridge gets warm and the milk goes off.
Solution? We have bought one of those child safety clips (search for fridge safety clip or lock) to hold the freezer door closed.
Simple design error. Expected better from Bosch :-(

Your refrigerator's cool is provided by your freezer section through a damper - there should not be excessive frost on the cooling coils - the most common problem is a defrost timer - are you absolutely sure the noise you hear is the defrost this is the first thing to check, defrost control and its components, is it properly shutting off or stuck on during operation - the next thing to check is for possible sealed system problems / small leaks, door gasket seals, etc.

The fact that it started to work once you manually defrosted is the key here - an over forsted evap will cause the problems you describe most commonly - so have your defrost system checked completly and properly - that should solve the problem. followed by checking door gaskets, damper and sealed system - if only part of the coils are frosted as opposed to the entire surface, that usually a clue to sealed system leak - yes 10C is quite warm for a refrigerator. It should be between 34F-40F, optimal is 34F. And freezer section no warmer than 10F, optimal at 0F (-18C)

there is a drain hole in the freezer dept in the fridge that is blocked This requires removing all the panels etc within the freezer until you get to the main grill at the back This will be iced up so you might have to wait a while or you might be able to chip away at it. You will then see the drain hole concerned at thre bottom Try pocking a thin wire down it or poor hot water over it Its a bit of fiddling around but is not hard to clear Problem solved

The small drain pipe on the back of the fridge gets clogged, hence no drainage when defrosting, hence ice blocks the airflow between the freezer compartment and the fridge compartment.
Remove the rubber stop from the drain pipe and clean (can be found above the motor)
Defrost the fridge for a few days (it takes at least 48 hours). During this time, if you are not brave enough to remove the internal panels of the freezer and continually clean the water, check for water coming out and clean.
If during the defrost there is no water coming out the drain pipe, use about 2m of flexible and strong wire to clean the pipe.
The aim is to unblock the pipe once the ice has melted.

same problem but electronic temperture on in fridge but keeps flashing