Location of DM board
SOURCE: i need help
Solution #1
posted on Aug 05, 2008
Good Day, RONALDSADAT;
You and a million others are having this problem. Are you handy? Did you say; yes/kind of?
HERE IS THE SOLUTION FOR THAT PROBLEM AND THE ONES YOU WILL HAVE IN FUTURE:
Replace C81A2,C81A3, C81B3 AND C81B4 (1000uFD, 16 V) On DM PCB.
Replace C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27 (1000uFD, 16 V) On FMT PCB.
Replace C9A51, C9A52, C9A61, C9A62 On power PCB.
REPLACE ALL WITH (680uFD, 16V, 105c), part number 181P734030.
Replace C9A37 and C9A38 ON POWER PCB. (3300uFD, 16 V).
Good Luck, big IRISH.
ps; Three boards on left side of TV and about 2.5 to 3 hours of repair time.
SOURCE: WD 52525 mitsubishi - how to I get a copy of manual and check balist - or dm board?
you can get the service manual at the following link. Its under the mitsubishi category listed as the V26 DLP service manual.
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/
SOURCE: blinking green light
The DM has caps on it that are easily changed if you can solder, a google search should lead to many forums with the proper instructions
SOURCE: No DM Board on WD-65833
The Main Board contains the DM circuitry. And you are right, this board does not fail in the way of its predecessors. What is the unit doing?
SOURCE: blinking light of death wd-52725 blinks green wont
Please let me know if you can get any sound at all out of your unit.
I had a similar problem. I had a 52"
RCArear projection tv. It
would do this when I initially turned on the television, but then after a few
"on/off, on/off, on/off" cycles it would stay on. Eventually it
started doing it more; until finally there was a spark and that was it. The tv
was dead.The bloggers called it "the blinking green light of death" (because
of green light on the panel).The
power board is going out.ALSO holding down the Input and Menu buttons afterward will give you
some diagnostic information via 2 sets of blinking indicator lights. You may very well
have issues with capacitors on this set being that it is or very similar to the
V26 chassis. Since I have spare test lamps laying around, I would normally try
that first. If the lamp still would not stay lit, I would then suspect the
electrical chassis (capacitors). When I suspect the chassis, I can usually
verify it by pulling it out and partially disassemble it and find blown capacitors
solution
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