The 34 psi of the pressure tank sounds high, but it depends on what the cut-in pressure is set at in the pump pressure switch. Typically the pressure switch is for 20-40 psi or 30-50 psi. To establish what the pre-charge of tank should be , you need to establish what the pressure switch setting are (i.e 20 - 40 psi , etc.) Run the water and watch the pressure gauge and note at what pressure the pump comes on. The pressure tank needs to be pre charged 2 -4 psi below that cut-in pressure. So if the cut-in pressure is say 30 psi, then the tank needs to be pre charged to 28 psi.
To pre charge the pressure tank, turn the pump off. Drain the pressure tank of water to relieve all pressure in the tank. Then check the pressure of the tank at the air valve. Set the pressure to 2 psi below what the cut-in pressure is.
If you adjust the pressure switch, say from 20-40 to 30-50, you will need to go through the procedure of re adjusting the pressure in the tank. I hope this helps....
Joel,
Thanks for the info. I assumed it had something to do with the pressure switch, but there is information on setting it. I have a long bolt and a shorter one. Both have a nut on them to compress a spring. There is no way to tell what the setting is. Is all the way loose more or less pressure ?
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SOURCE: Cabin pump, primed fine only goes to28psi and keeps running
Sounds like the injector nozzle is plugged. This nozzle is directly inside the influent line on single line jets and down in the well on two-line jets. I'm assuming you have it primed correctly. If this happened suddenly the it'd definitely the injector nozzle. It it was a gradual process over time then I would say it's either a badly worn nozzle or worn impeller.
SOURCE: I replaced old pump w/
The water and therefore the pressure has to be going somewhere. If you are sure that there are no leaks in the house or outside, then the water is going back into the well. There is a check valve either in the suction line of the pump between the top of the well and the pump or down in the well.
If this check valve fails, it allows water to go the wrong way and back to the well. The result is that you lose pressure.
Secondly, you have to be sure that there are no air leaks between the top of the well and the inlet to the check valve. Leaks in that piping will make repriming difficult.
Write back with more and I'll try to help more.
Gary
Good you got it working. Please post again if you have more trouble on this or another item. Also be sure and check what I mentioned just in case you are operating at the margins, don't want a failure right after you got it going!
If in the past your system can build-up pressure up to 40 psi even if the supply valve is open and water is being used in your house, then your pump impeller maybe already worn out that's why its pumping capacity was reduced.
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I don't know if the link worked. The large spring is for the cut-in pressure. Turn clockwise to increase the cut-in pressure. Then once that is set where you want it, the small spring will set the cut-out pressure. Typically the pressure range or differential is 20-40, 30-50 psi. Once you have the pressure cut-in and cut-out set, proceed to setting the pressure tank per directions
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