Oven not heating KitchenAid KERC506HWH3

Hi,
I have a one year and 2 month old KitchenAid KEMC308KSS03 Wall oven/microwave combination.
After a self cleaning cycle the oven would not heat again. Eveything else works fine the microwave, controls, etc.
The problem is the thermal limiter switch that KitchenAid used. It is a one shot thermal limiter that opens if the back of the oven goes above 120degrees C and does not reset when it cools down.
The KitchenAid PN is 9759243 BUT don't replace it with the same part if you have this problem. KitchenAid want $84 for this silly thing and it a piece of junk. Buy a PN 317-1368-ND from DigiKey Inc. 1-800-344-4539. This is a 120 degree C thermal limit switch but it will RESET itself when the oven cools down so if it happens again you won't have to pull the oven. This part cost s $6.60 from DigiKey and is a much better part than the original one from KitchenAid.
The switch is on the back of the lower oven, there is a cover that comes off and you will see it screwed to the back with two wires connected to it with faston terminals. It is an easy permanent fix for this problem.
KitchenAid is ABSOLUTELY NO HELP with this (as ususal).
I hope this helps.
Herald

There is a very high likelihood that your problem is caused by a bad relay (switch) on your EOC aka: clock. The other posibility is that there's an open thermostat on your range somewhere that's been tripped by a high heat condition. If this problem happened right after you ran a self clean cycle you've probably tripped a thermostat which can be reset if it has a button on the back and you can find it. If not you could replace the EOC (Electronic Oven Control). These can be quite costly but if you look it up and it's cheap you could try changing it yourself. It's usually pretty simple. A few screws to remove the back panel and them a few more holding the EOC in place. Just make sure the power is off and you mark the wire locations.

I've got a Bosch oven and had the same problem.

I found that the thermostat might be to blame. In my case it was very simple - I opened up the back, and where the thermostat connects with wires, there was a little reset switch - and all I needed to do was push it in to reset, and it worked fine again.

I think it's a little protection device that activates when the temperature exceeds the thermostat's working capacity.

(I used to joke to friends that this is the button they put in so that technicians can simply reset and then charge you for the labour!)

Hope this helps some of you, if not everyone - just a pity that I only found this website today, and not in time for your Christmas dinners!

Bruce

Asdfdasf

There is a design problem with certain model Whirlpool ranges where the thermal fuse blows during self-cleaning (auto-clean). This may be because of inadequate insulation, causing the outer panel to overheat. When the thermal fuse is replaced, the range will work, but it will blow the next time auto-clean is done. To safely work around the problem, the thermal fuse may be replaced with a thermostat, which will reset itself once the oven has partially cooled off. If the part number of the thermal fuse is 9759243, it will blow at 120 deg C (248 deg F). This can be replaced to a Selco Part# SES-L250 thermostat. The terminals are perpendicular (90 degrees), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel. 

Selco part# SES-L250 specs:

Surface Mount
3/4 in. disc
120/240 VAC
25 A
SPDT
open on-rise (normally closed)
open (cut-out): 250 deg F
close (cut-in): 220 deg F
temperature differential: 40 deg F

Info: http://catalog.selcoproducts.com/item/3-4-disc-thermostats/surface-mount-automatic-reset-open-on-rise/pn-5113?&seo=110
Available: Selco distributors: http://www.selcoproducts.com/distributors.php

and online at

Allied Electronics http://www.alliedelec.com


If the Selco SES-L250 'surface mount' thermostat is not available, an 'airstream type' thermostat can be used with a few differences:

1) I recommend to replace it to a 240 or 230 deg F thermostat. The reason for the lower cut-out temperature is that an 'airstream mount' thermostat will not be flush with the back panel, as is the original 250 deg F 'surface mount' one, so it may cut-out at a higher (unsafe) temperature.

2) I recommend to add Heat-sink compound between the thermostat and the sheet metal. This is used for computer processors and is available at computer and electronic component stores.

3) An 'airstream type' thermostat is thicker than the original 'surface mount' one, so longer screws will have to be obtained. The sheet metal tabs on the thermostat will bend slightly when installing.

4) The terminals are perpendicular (90 degrees), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel. 

Recommended 'airstream type' thermostats:

Supco L240
Info: http://www.supco.com/images/pdfs/2009%20HVAC%20Caralog/2009%20Catalog%20for%20Web2.pdf
Available: http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/applianceshvac/supco/crossref/thermostats2.html

Selco SE-L240
Info: http://catalog.selcoproducts.com/item/3-4-disc-thermostats/ts-3-4-disc-se-series-airstream-mount-open-on-rise/pn-5096?&seo=110

White-Rodgers 3L01-230
Info: http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/pdfs/06_Cat_pages/Cat_06_pg0092.pdf

General Electric LS2-240


Note: Do not use the Digikey 317-1368-ND thermostat as mentioned in another solution because it's only rated to 10A at 250VAC, but the range needs a 25A thermostat.

Does anybody have any solutions??

Hi On my Kenmore range model 0880 6395 39J2 i think i have the same problem! i looked for burnt wires didnt see any! any chance it could be the prheat sensor?

Check for 22o volts at terminal block on range. Also look for burned wires there.