SOURCE: Kenmore HE 4t Elite Front Loader Washing Machine
Inside the dispenser drawer, at the bottom there is a tab that you can push down to remove the dispenser drawer. Remove the drawer and check if the dispenser holes are clogged, this is a common cause.
SOURCE: F22 code appears on Kenmore Elite Front Load washing-?
communication error between control board and panel. Make sure both are replaced together. common problem
SOURCE: laundry smells like mildew after washing
Front load washers retain water that you cant see or get to. There are cleaners for washing machines available. I clean mine every month with alot of bleach , try pouring a half gallon of bleach in the soap insert on a normal wash cycle and an extra rinse would not hurt no clothes of course.
SOURCE: he2 front loading washing machine leak at the soap dispenser regi
Hi dlypooh, thought I would post the solution here as well for anybody who needs to do a search in the future...
Remove the dispenser, pour water into the opening and make sure water
can get into the machine freely. Inspect the opening for soap build up.
If water goes down slowly (re: dlypooh), open the washer door and
feel around the bellow for anything blocking the water inlet port into
the washer (socks can sometimes get wedged up there and cause a
blockage).
If it all checks out ok, make sure the machine is properly leveled and not leaning forward.
Hope that helps!
SOURCE: Kenmore 70 Series Washing Machine Just Hums (Won't Agitate)
First, see the Sears Parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.22712100
Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
Initial thoughts are a worn/broken motor coupler.
See the following for how to get to it and check it.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135&osCsid=6019c5e82bfa177df953f5d6ebeac983
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
It's possible that the prongs have broken and the humming that you hear is the pieces rubbing against the center rubber piece.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
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