Water pressure problem remove valves - Kenmore 24 in. 17482 / 17484 / 17489 Built-in Dishwasher

Have you measured the pressure or is it a faulty valve. Are the inlet and outlet valve open. There is a safety valve for thermal relief on top of the tank.

First I would check that there is no debris stuck in the valve. In most cases if this is a pressure balanced valve if either the cold or hot water side does not have pressure the valve will not function. When installing the valve was it soldered in? If so was the valve cartridge removed when soldering? Was the valve body flushed after installation before the valve body installed if removed during installation? That model has plastic valve cartridges which are very sensitive to heat and must be removed before soldering.Also the valve body has intergal shut offs make sure that they are turned to the on position for both hot and cold. As I said above being that this is a pressure balanced valve water pressure must be available from both hot and cold. If either hot or cold has less pressure then the other the valve will balance the pressure to be equal, this is to prevent scalding.

Make sure the water valve to the toilet is actually letting water into the fill valve. Turn off valve, remove from fill valve, run water into a pan to see pressure and confirm water flow. If water flow and pressure good, replace the fill valve.

First check that any by-pass valves are in proper position. Remember, cold water has to enter in bottom fitting at back of tank, and hot water comes out at top fitting. Thus any valves that may be there, need to be in open position, and any valve between those 2 lines will need to be closed. If all valves are in proper position and working as they should, I would suspect you have a faulty check valve between top (hot) line fitting and tank. One easy way to check that before replacing it, would be to shut incoming water source off, whether running off pump or hose attached outside. Then relieve all pressure in system by opening taps until all pressure is gone. Now, go outside and open pressure relief valve carefully ( in case it's hot ) and make sure pressure is relieved there as well. Now, carefully hold pressure relief valve open while you have someone turn water back on, and see if you get good flow from pressure relief valve. If you get good pressure coming out of there, that tells you your tank is getting full, and you have water coming in as needed, so problem has to be on hot side ( top fitting ) and/or onward from there, which would be check valve fitting at top next to check. Remove the check valve and If you don't have a new check valve to try it, just put a short galvanized 1/2" pipe nipple in there for now if needed and that should do it, just attach your fitting directly to nipple. Before you do this, make sure you have removed all aerators etc on taps that may be plugged and tested pressure that way as well just in case. I have seen all of them plug up at same time before. If you remove them and get good pressure, then problem solved.

Common problem. The water admitance valve is stuck in the bore. The valve lets in more water when pressure drops and when wand is closed the pressure builds and the incoming water is blocked. Remove the valve spool and clean the bore with crocus cloth on a dowel rod. Replace the O Rings and lube with plumber's grease and re-assemble. Often you can buy an O Ring kit for the unit. Deposits build up and stick the valve spool at the high pressure end. The valve is usually crossways to the shaft and right where the water input is connected.

Hot water pressure relief valves serve two functions. The first is to remove high-pressure water from the hot water tank. The second function is to act as a high temperature valve to remove water that exceeds a predetermined point for the valve. Both of these relief settings are preset at the valve factory. Many pressure relief valves will come with a metal tag that identifies these release points. If you're attempting to remove the hot water heater pressure relief valve, pay careful attention to ensure that you replace with the correct valve.

Your hot water heater has a pressure relief valve safety mechanism. When pressure inside the water tank exceeds certain limitations, the valve opens up to allow the pressure to be released. A faulty pressure relief valve will not release excess pressure, which could cause extensive damage to your home. You should test the hot water heater pressure relief valve once every six months to ensure proper operation. If the pressure relief valve fails the test, replace the valve with a new one immediately

Locate the pressure relief valve on your hot water heater. The pressure relief valve has a lever handle on top with a drain pipe attached to it. The pressure relief valve is most often on the side of the water tank toward the top. Newer models of hot water heaters have the pressure relief valve on top of the water tank.

Inspect the area around the pressure relief valve for signs of leaking water. If there is leaking water near the relief valve connection, replace the relief valve. If no leaking is evident, proceed with testing the pressure valve.

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Examine the area below the pressure relief valve drain pipe. Most water heater closets either have a drain in the floor below the pipe or the pipe is inserted into another pipe to direct the water out of the home. If the end of your drain pipe is not in another pipe or there is no drain in the floor, place a bucket under the drain pipe to catch water when you test the pressure relief valve.

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Pull the lever handle on the top of the pressure relief valve up with your fingers. A working lever will lift up without difficulty.You should begin to hear water going through the drain pipe. Slowly release the lever to shut off the pressure relief valve. The pressure relief valve is good. If you did not hear water running through the drain pipe, lower the lever on the pressure relief valve and replace the valve. If the lever is difficult to raise, do not force the lever. Replace the pressure relief valve.

Now with all that said if you have a closed loop water supply system and you have a pressure vessal/expantion tank it may have gone bad and is making the TP valve leak. you can call your water provider to see if you have closed loop system.

It sounds like two problems.
Problem 1) Clog inside faucet or clog inside pipes at faucet
Remove supply tubes leading to faucet and see if problem is inside pipes or inside faucet.
My bet is clog inside faucet.

If you have galvanized pipe that meets copper pipe, this can be trouble spot.
Article on clogged water pipes at Inspectapedia:
http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pipe_Clog_Repair_Guide.htm

Article on clogged pipes:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/backflushing.html

Problem 2) Water heater leak ... you say tank valve is leaking? Is that cold-water shut-off valve? Or tank drain valve? Or TP valve?

If cold water shut-off is leaking, then replace shut off.

If tank drain valve is leaking, then check if plastic valve is cracked. If drain valve is cracked, then replace with a brass valve from Home Depot. If plastic valve breaks off, then use hammer and screwdriver to gently chip out the broken plastic valve. New valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. If valve is just dripping, then put garden-hose cap over end of valve and screw down tight.

If TP valve is leaking, then replace with same temperature and pressure rating. New TP valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe.

Problem 3) If pressure is low all over house:
Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that screws onto hose connection.

Test pressure on outdoor spigot.
Open faucet and check if pressure drops. This says if problem is inside pipes that enter house.

Test pressure on water heater drain valve.
This says if pressure problem is before -or- after water heater.

If problem is before the water heater, then shut-off valve located on cold water line is suspect.
If problem is after water heater, it could be in hot water outflow pipe on top of water heater, or a nearby elbow.
Remove hot water line leading from water heater and check pressure. This says if problem is where hot water leaves tank.
Read articles above about clogs inside water lines.

It is possile that it had apressure fluction for various reasons. It's also possible that valve spring is just getting weak. What i would do first is replace T&P valve and see what happens.These are common 3/4 inch male iron pipe t&p valve available at most hardware stores. First shut off water supply to water heater, then open valve on hot water side of nearest faucet to relieve pressure. Remove old valve by turning counterclockwise. You may need a pipe wrench as they can be pretty tight. Remove old t&p valve and use teflon pipe tape or joint compound on new valve threads. Install new valve and tighten securely. Close faucet previously opened to relieve pressure,then turn water supply valve to water heater. Check for leaks and tighten further if needed. Check valve occasionally for next couple days. If no further leaks from valve then your're in business. Hope this helps. Thanks

Dear allbusiness9,
This problem is most probably due to a faulty Spill Valve( also called Control Valve). When the gun is released the spill valve is compressed and it either closes a micro switch or just opens from the bottom and keeps the water circulating. All spill valves keep the water circulating from the bottom part. Now when the gun is pulled (opened)...the spill valve extends and closes the bottom part, and thus water goes out of the nozzel. When you work with no nozzel, there is enough water flow to close the bottom part of the spill valve. So when the nozzel is placed back there is no chance that the bottom part leaks water. When the gun is started with the nozzel....the bottom part of a FAULTY spill valve,..will colapse and pressure drops. So to fix the fault you must change the Spill Valve. In some occasions, I also found that suction valves give this problem. A faulty sucktion valve will colapse under high pressure, and lets water pass the other way round.
But in my opinion and experience, your problem is in the Spill Valve.
Regards,
Fulltech.