How do I remove the metal case of my sewing machine so I can replace a belt?
A: You asked, "How do I remove the metal case of my sewing machine so i can replace a belt?" Without the specific Make and Model number it is impossible to give a specific answer, so with such a general question you can only get a general answer regarding Metal-Case machines (since that is the only information you provided in your question).
Many Metal-Case sewing machines usually have either:
(A) External Motors and External Drive-Belts, changing the belt is easy and intuitive.
(B) Internal Motors that are Internal Direct-Drive and have no Drive-Belts to change or adjust.
(C) Internal Motors and Internal Belt-Driven Hand-Wheels, and this is what I assume you have. To change the belt:
(1) Unplug the machine.
(2) Remove the Top-Panel (usually 2 or 3 screws need removal). Some machines (very few) have a pry-off top that has no screws, just internal spring-clips that hold onto nubbins under the lid.
(3) Remove the Left Side-Panel that fits around and under the Hand-Wheel (if it has a side panel; and it may be plastic, there should be 1 or 2 slot-head screws holding it in place. If it just has 1 screw it is generally centrally located; if 2, one may be high and the other low. A few machines also have interlocking tabs that fit into the body, that must be un-puzzeled to remove.
(4) Loosen the motor Drive-Belt Pulley to remove the old belt (it is usually a slotted set-screw or a small Allen Wrench (Hex).
If there is a Part Number on the old belt, use, or measure the old belt and/or use the Part Number to help match it to a new belt. If you have a manual, it may show the Drive-Belt Part Number; there are also Parts Lists for many machines. Less expensive generic parts are often just as good, as long as they are of the correct size, configuration and installed properly. Avoid the rubber-band type giant O-Rings to Drive machines, Belts are better *.
(5) Replace the new Drive-Belt and Drive-Belt Pulley, adjusting the belt tension so the motor can reach full speed without laboring. "A Twee-Bit Too-Loose" is better than being "Too-Tight"., but best to be just right, that is to allow the belt to deflect a little if pressed in the middle, yet tight enough so there is no slippage. A lugged belt (often Orange color, but sometimes Black) makes it much easier, since there is no slippage due to the lugs, and it can allow the machine to turn easier (with less resistance than * tight O-ring Drive-Belts) to sew better with less motor- bushing wear). "Assembly" is the reverse of "Disassembly".
-- Amender (2016 FEB 23)
Jan 30, 2016 |