SOURCE: Electric Oven doen't heat
cdkd, there should be a TC0, on the back of the oven. Thermal cut out. You want to check to see if it is open. You will have to pull the oven out enough that you can remove the back panel cover and check it. The lower and upper oven should have one. It's a very cheap part to replace. If this TCO fails, no heat. Check this first before buying a new board. Catriver..post back.
SOURCE: my GE double oven is flashing F1 and beeping
My F1 began beeping incessantly this month after a gradual increase in sensed ambient temperature over about a year. If the oven was turned off, it would beep no matter what I did to try to clear the fault. I actually had to turn off the power at the fuse box to make the beeping stop, - or I could turn on the oven and just leave it at 150º if I wasn't using it, which would also make it stop. The heating elements were not kicking in until the setting was over 185º, which was the gradually developing problem over about a year. It was getting so we had to turn the oven all the way up to 550º just to get it to 375º. I thought it was the temp sensor so I replaced it, but that had no effect. Then I bought a new module by calling the GE Number in the manual for parts, and it came in 2 days, and I installed it, and it works fine now. Cost of module: incl shipping / tax: $308 I re-installed and am still using the old temp sensor. If you unscrew the top two screws on the grey sheet-steel flange that screw into your cabinetry, the whole oven slides out of the wall opening. Get a dolly and some supports and you can pull it completely out of the wall and roll it arround for access to the back. To replace the module, you only have to slide the oven about 3/4ths of the way out, then you could unscrew the sheet metal screws at the middle of the top panel and just work underneath the lifted sheet metal. Be sure and take the doors off!
SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,
SOURCE: Bottom oven doesn't heat after running self-clean cycle
Usually, when an oven won't heat, it's because the bake element is burned out. The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.
SOURCE: GE Double Oven JKP45BA, lower oven wont heat
Hi,
If your electric
oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating lelement in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself...
Check out this tip that I wrote about the Oven not heating problem..
Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating
heatman101
122 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×