Kenmore electic range Model 790.9611 oven does not work although broiler does; the bottom burner in the oven does not warm up; even when I put it on bake, only the top burner gets hot and it remains red like using the broiler

SOURCE: burners don't receive gas though oven/broiler does

tommi, this model has a cooktop lock-out solenoid feature. Try pressing and holding the top light keypad for 5 seconds and see if the top comes back to life. If not, check your owners manual, it may be a different key. The lock-out solenoid is in the back behind the outer panel. The cooktop lockout valve has been redesigned from a AC to DC voltage because of complaints of chattering. The new part number is 8184768. Lets hope you don't need it and just have the top locked out.

Archie Ferrarini

• 869 Answers
• Posted on Jul 06, 2008

SOURCE: Oven, broiler don't work

The main control board is what you need to replace here.Please Rate This !

john gagnon

• 943 Answers
• Posted on Oct 08, 2008

SOURCE: Kemore gas Oven /range - oven very slow to warm and gas leaks but Broiler ok

Hi thanks for the question. the problem you are having is with the igniter in the oven. it ignites but not hot enough to burn all the gas. replace the bake igniter. thanks the appliance doc. please rate my answer. thanks.

SOURCE: Kenmore Propane Range won't bake

oven or broiler wont work stove top works fine

SOURCE: oven quit working

Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.

Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.

You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.

The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.

Please rate and god bless:)