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mark chapman Posted on May 08, 2014
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Removed one end of a three way light and indtalled plug. Tied red and black at plug and it works. When I turn light sw on, plug goes dead?

Do I need to eliminate red wire?

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Chris R

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  • Posted on Jun 01, 2014
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Turn the switch the other way around? without knowing how it was originally wired, it's a little tough to diagnose.

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  • Posted on May 26, 2014
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Do you mean you replaced one 3-way switch with outlet?
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#3-way

Instead of replacing 3-way switch with outlet..
You can use a Leviton 5245 combo 3-way switch and outlet
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#5245

Gene
h

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5 Related Answers

ashburton

  • 417 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 07, 2008

SOURCE: Downstairs toilet light switch needs rewiring

Yes, run a black wire from connector (a) to one terminal of your new light fitting if you are installing a metal fitting you will need to connect an earth wire also.

If you are reusing the same pull switch and it is still connected as you describe then the floating end near the light is probably the switched live conductor, so you could connect this to the live terminal of the new light. but be careful it may be live.

Caution always disconnect the power before working on electrical wiring.

Please remember to rate this solution.

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A Miller

  • 8404 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 20, 2009

SOURCE: I am trying to replace a rotary canopy switch in a

This is a very strange arrangement, your switch

BTW, my pleasure ... I am a volunteer poster here - not an employee. I'm at home ... watching Dancing with the Stars - I do this for the 'bragging rights'. I'm not perfect but pretty darn good for a High School shuv-out!

You may be able to find a "Off - On (1) - ON (2) - Off" kind of switch ... I'm racking my little brain from when I worked as a (50 year+old) stock boy at the Ace hardware/Auto supply, row 3 - electrical - to see if I remember seeing that switch. I'm pretty sure there is such a thing.

Your arrangement is very strange. Take your switch to the hardware and spend some time exploring. And forget the big box store for now ... look at your little hardware store first. I think they will most likely be able to find you a replacement or the switch I described above.

Thanks for using Fixya.com and I hope I have helped you with your question.

a

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A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Oct 15, 2010

SOURCE: My girlfriend has a leviton illumatech IP106 that

As a general rule for timers and dimmers:

The Black dimmer wire connects to black hot wire coming from breaker (122V line)
The red dimmer wire connects to Load (wire going to chandelier)

The wall red wire that is capped could be a couple different things. a) It could go to a second switch that was used to control the chandelier. b) it could be another wire that goes to same ceiling box as chandelier to be used to control a fan, except you don't have a fan. In the second case, if you install a fan with a light, you could control fan and light separately.

The green is a ground wire that connects to bare copper wire in box. The bare copper connect back to main breaker box on the Neutral busbar.
White wires that are twisted together inside your light switch box also connect back to to main breaker box on the Neutral busbar.
The ground wire and neutral are a redundant safety system to protect you from electrical devices and appliances that have 'shorted'
The black hot wire connects back to the circuit breaker.

For example, each circuit breaker controls one area of household lighting. The black white and copper wires leave breaker box in a single romex cable. The romex travels to a junction box in the area where the lights are located. The junction box is usually a switch box or a ceiling box. From the junction box, the romex travels to each other switch, light and receptacle box in the area. So each box has 1 hot and 1 neutral and 1 ground that is connected in a line that leads back to breaker box.

Here's a couple pages that make home wiring easier to understand:
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/240-v-water-heater-circuit.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Install-owb.html

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Anonymous

  • 43501 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 20, 2011

SOURCE: I am replacing an existing

Hi,
White wires under the silver screw...
The black wire under the black screw...
and the red wire under the brass screw...

If it does not work right then switch the red and black wires...

heatman101

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Aug 22, 2011

SOURCE: I have the same problem

You have 120volt photocell.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html#photo-eye

Wiring sounds correct.
Lights are on all the time, even in daylight.
How is the power by-passing the photocell shut-off?
Disconnect ground wire to make sure there is not a ground fault causing circuit to complete on ground wire.
Otherwise the photocell might be bad.

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Overall I have a switch at each end of the garage with two lights in the roof in between. Sw (A), Lite (B), Lite (C), Sw (D). SW A & D work as three way. I want to change out Sw D to a wall plug a

If this is what you've got:

a1111786-3b67-43eb-a2de-7ac2c5a3e864.jpg
"S3" are 3 way switches, black screws are the common or shunt. (Adjust colors of wires to what you have).

You can easily change it to look like this:

2fce37ab-a33c-44d8-bba6-846b5e07bd17.jpg


All S3s are out. Replace one with an S1 (single pole). The other S3 is now the outlet. Silver screw for neutral gold screw for hot. Outlet is always on, S1 controls both lights.

Please note: There are several ways to wire 2 three way switches (S3) to control a light or two. This is just one with a way to change this method to the way you're look for. Your wiring may not allow you to do this as easily.

Good luck!
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I am replacing an existing switch/single outlet, the outlet was always live.the switch controlled a light. the existing sw was very old and only has connections on the back top.. The left had 2 white wires...

Hi,
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If it does not work right then switch the red and black wires...

heatman101
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I just bought a switch to control both fan speed and light control (dual switch) i hooked it up every thing worked fine. then to realize that the outlets that follow dont work. just as a clue on the...

The key seems to be that you changed wiring in the ceiling box.

I suggest you make a drawing of the wires before and after. Track the route that the Hot wire takes.

The key question is this: Does Hot wire from breaker box arrive in the ceiling box first? Or does it arrive in wall box first?

I think Hot from breaker arrives in wall box first. And from there Hot wire goes to ceiling box ... and from ceiling box the hot wire goes to other plugs in room. If this is true, you will be one wire short for installing fan control switch.

I always make a drawing of existing wires before starting, so I can put it back the way it was. It sounds like you got a good handle on which wire goes where.

We used to solve the one-wire-short problem by making a simple project bigger. Figure out which direction ceiling joist run. See if you can slide fish line from fan ceiling box over to wall. If that works. Over at the wall, chop small hole in ceiling so you can feed wire up to fish line. Pull wire over to ceiling box. Next, staple other end of wire along ceiling over to location above wall box. Chop another small hole so you can feed wire down to wall box. And then install beautiful crown molding to hide the mess, and paint the room so you need new furniture.
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i am attaching a picture for your assistance.ffa4dce.jpg
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