What is the rating of the NTC Power Thermistor Capacitor (SCK 056) located in slot NT 811S of the upper left hand board. (Samsung TV model LN32B360?

Change your source... it is waiting for your Personal Computer to be plugged in...

Need the board locations of the parts your needing the info on. Such as cxxx or Rxxx stamped on the PC Board.

Power converter board is probably blown.
Take it to a repair shop.

Try ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XSCK-2R58+thermistor&_nkw=SCK-2R58+thermistor&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Do any of the results match what you want, in terms of volts / amps?

Check and replace damaged component/s at its main power regulator board, or, replace the board as card basis. If you wish to get more details, check this link.http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
Pull up previous posts by its left sidebar, or type in the brand name and model number to of your set, to its search box, and press 'Enter' or view it in Mosaic / Timeslide option.

Thanks for stopping by.

Typically, for the symptoms you have described - the power supply board likely has failed capacitor(s). If you were to remove the back of the set - you'd probably notice the power capacitors leaking or bulging.

For your Samsung LN32B360C5D CLICK HERE to see your board/replacement.

The big yellow capacitor in the middle is the likely culprit.
While you have it open - check the fuse near the power plug as well.



This is not something that will correct with a reset or button press - it will require repair.
If you have it to a repair shop - expect a $75 component repair charge. If the board cannot be repaired - the board itself is $89-$135 plus 1 hour shop labor to replace.


Thanks!!

I had the same problem and finally figured out what was wrong and fixed it. If the TV is making clicking sound, 95% the problem is the main power supply board (PSB). The easy fix is to replace the new PSB which can be ordered online from $80 to $100 (model # PSPF 501A01A), or you can buy it straight from Samsung for $129.95. If you are a little handy in electronic, knowing how to solder and troubleshoot electronic components, you can fixed it for a little cost around $30. It was $1.77+ shipping for my case, I guess I'm lucky.

I have read and research a lot of info on the internet forums and here is what I learned about this clicking problem. The clicking noise you hear when turning on the TV is the sound coming from the switching relay. It's the power protection circuit which senses a short somewhere in the system and trying to shut it down. The short can also be from other boards connecting to the main PSB, or within the PSB itself. Of course I'm not certified or TV repair man, but if it is something minor and can be fixed by a handyman, I'll try it first. If it is beyond the basic, a major problem or you have no idea about electronic at all, have it serviced at a certified TV repair shop.

For my case, here are the steps I took to troubleshoot it:

1. Unplug all 4 connectors on the main PSB. Use a Voltmeter to check the voltage on pin 10 of CN804-1 (read the print on the board where it said SB 5V), this is the standby 5V supply. If the voltage is low, not present, or spike on and off, the issue is the power supply. If the TV is totally dead after the clicking stage, this stand by voltage should be 0V or spiking up and down. For my case, the Power thermistor is dead.

2. Visual Inspection: Visually inspect the PSB for any damaged component, especially all the ESR capacitors. Look in the back of the PSB to see if all the solder traces are ok, no crack or black stain causing from burned components. If you find any damaged component, replace it.

3. If everything look good on the main PSB, then the problem is likely on somewhere else, may be the Y-board. At this stage, you should consult with a certified TV repair person.

Here is what happened to me:

Symptom:
-First stage: When turn on the TV, it was clicking for less than one minute then back to normal.
-Second stage: After 3 days, the clicking last longer to about 4 minutes then back to normal.
-Third stage: After 1 week, the power button's blue light is flashing when the TV is off. But "might" turn on after clicking for about 8-10 minutes.
-Fourth stage: No flashing blue light, no response. The TV is totally DEAD!

Solution:
-Visually inspected the PSB. Everything look good except I found an NTC Power Thermistor (next to the switching relay) was bad. It was burned and opened. The number on it is SCK 206.

-I checked the stand by voltage at pin 10 of CN804-1. I have no voltage there but a spiked voltage up and down on the meter (no reading). Definitely the problem is the PSB.

-All solder traces and capacitors look good, so I decided to replace the burned power thermistor. The big problem is to find a new part online because there is no match for SCK 206, SCK 206 is not the part number and no one on the online store knows what substitute part for SCK 206.

After a few days searching for the part number, I was lucky to talked to a technical support from a Amethem company which designed the NTC power thermistor and he quickly recognized the Samsung SCK 206. He gave me a substitute part number of a much better quality power thermistor. The part number is SL227R010 (7Ohms, 10A).

When you have the correct part number, you can find it everywhere. The cost was $1.77 each, and I got it from Digikey.com

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&KeyWords=sl227r010&x=0&y=0

I solder the new component back to the main PSB. My TV came back to life. Hope it help for your case.

I had the same problem and finally figured out what was wrong and fixed it. If the TV is making clicking sound, 95% the problem is the main power supply board (PSB). The easy fix is to replace the new PSB which can be ordered online from $80 to $100 (model # PSPF 501A01A), or you can buy it straight from Samsung for $129.95. If you are a little handy in electronic, knowing how to solder and troubleshoot electronic components, you can fixed it for a little cost around $30. It was $1.77+ shipping for my case, I guess I'm lucky.

I have read and research a lot of info on the internet forums and here is what I learned about this clicking problem. The clicking noise you hear when turning on the TV is the sound coming from the switching relay. It's the power protection circuit which senses a short somewhere in the system and trying to shut it down. The short can also be from other boards connecting to the main PSB, or within the PSB itself. Of course I'm not certified or TV repair man, but if it is something minor and can be fixed by a handyman, I'll try it first. If it is beyond the basic, a major problem or you have no idea about electronic at all, have it serviced at a certified TV repair shop.

For my case, here are the steps I took to troubleshoot it:

1. Unplug all 4 connectors on the main PSB. Use a Voltmeter to check the voltage on pin 10 of CN804-1 (read the print on the board where it said SB 5V), this is the standby 5V supply. If the voltage is low, not present, or spike on and off, the issue is the power supply. If the TV is totally dead after the clicking stage, this stand by voltage should be 0V or spiking up and down. For my case, the Power thermistor is dead.

2. Visual Inspection: Visually inspect the PSB for any damaged component, especially all the ESR capacitors. Look in the back of the PSB to see if all the solder traces are ok, no crack or black stain causing from burned components. If you find any damaged component, replace it.

3. If everything look good on the main PSB, then the problem is likely on somewhere else, may be the Y-board. At this stage, you should consult with a certified TV repair person.

Here is what happened to me:

Symptom:
-First stage: When turn on the TV, it was clicking for less than one minute then back to normal.
-Second stage: After 3 days, the clicking last longer to about 4 minutes then back to normal.
-Third stage: After 1 week, the power button's blue light is flashing when the TV is off. But "might" turn on after clicking for about 8-10 minutes.
-Fourth stage: No flashing blue light, no response. The TV is totally DEAD!

Solution:
-Visually inspected the PSB. Everything look good except I found an NTC Power Thermistor (next to the switching relay) was bad. It was burned and opened. The number on it is SCK 206.

-I checked the stand by voltage at pin 10 of CN804-1. I have no voltage there but a spiked voltage up and down on the meter (no reading). Definitely the problem is the PSB.

-All solder traces and capacitors look good, so I decided to replace the burned power thermistor. The big problem is to find a new part online because there is no match for SCK 206, SCK 206 is not the part number and no one on the online store knows what substitute part for SCK 206.

After a few days searching for the part number, I was lucky to talked to a technical support from a Amethem company which designed the NTC power thermistor and he quickly recognized the Samsung SCK 206. He gave me a substitute part number of a much better quality power thermistor. The part number is SL227R010 (7Ohms, 10A).

When you have the correct part number, you can find it everywhere. The cost was $1.77 each, and I got it from Digikey.com

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&KeyWords=sl227r010&x=0&y=0

I solder the new component back to the main PSB. My TV came back to life. Hope it help for your case.

It can be the backlights inverter board or the power supply section that supplys the power to the inverter board is bad. I hope it is still under warranty. You can how much some of the parts cost here: http://www.shopjimmy.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Samsung+LN32B360+
Please post back what you find.

The "negative temperature coeffecient" (NTC) thermistor was left unplugged after reassembly or it is defective.

It is the hood thermistor, and should be plugged into connector P4 on the circuit board.

I think it should be at the bottom of the board, on a little tongue-like protrusion, as shown in the attached photo.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here (just enter your model number).

You can also find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.