My washing machine won't stop-

The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

Defective timer seem far more likely.

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

1. No power to the washerMake sure there's power getting to the washer. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power. Sometimes the power cord disconnects at the washer, if this is the case, the wiring must be repaired or replaced.
   
2. Lid switchThe washing machine may not function if the lid switch is defective. The switch is usually located near the door. Replace if found defective.
   

Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/washer-repair-help.html#1#ixzz2YbiV2et5
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

The limit switch that detects that the lid is closed is probably defective. You've already probably experienced how the agitator would stop if the lid was opened when the machine was working properly--same thing.

1. Stopped Mid-cycle
   • If your Frigidaire washing machine started spinning, but then stopped, verify that the power cord is still connected to the outlet. See if the outlet blew by plugging in a different appliance into the outlet. See if you blew a fuse. A blown fuse usually is either black or has broken wires. Replace the fuse. If you have a circuit breaker instead of a fuse box, reset the circuit breaker if it's been tripped. Check the lid switch, which is located inside the main housing of the washing machine, near the door frame. If the switch is burned out, order a new part from a Frigidaire parts dealer.
     
   Pump
   • The pump's sole responsibility is to remove water during the spin cycle. If the pump isn't working properly, see if it's clogged with debris or clothing. Use needle-nose pliers to remove these items. Check the pump pulley, which is connected to the pump. This component must move freely for the pump to work. If it won't turn, purchase a new pump pulley since you can't usually fix this component.
     
   Lid
   • Check the door latch assembly if the door isn't closing correctly. If any of these components are broken, order a new part from a Frigidaire parts dealer. If you do not, the washer won't start spinning since it believes the door isn't closed. Your Frigidaire washing machine won't start the spin cycle until the lid or door is closed. Always close the lid, and remove any items preventing the lid from fully closing. Always close the dispenser drawer.
     
   Additional Concerns
   • Never over- or under-load your washing machine. Your Frigidaire washer may not enter the spin cycle if the load is too large, since this can damage the washing machine. Remove a few pieces of clothing. If the load is too small, add a few similar items to the washing machine. Check the internal belt, drive motor and motor coupling. If any of these components are broken or very worn, they may not work properly, preventing the washer from entering the spin cycle. Order replacement parts from a parts dealer. Check the tub and basket bearings, and get new ones if the current ones have broken components or are defective.
     

Easy fix. Lid switch is bad. This is a direct drive machine. Older models would wash but not spin these latest babys won't wash or spin with the lid switch broken. To access te switch you flip up the control by using a putty knife to release each end. Older models had a screw that needed to be removed, not so with the newest ones. The switch has 2 hot wires and a ground wire. Jump them 2 hot wires and see if she runs

Video: How to get into these machine:
How it works

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

have the motor tested, any shop should do it for free. (cause if its no good, they will sell you a new one)

no, need to empty water theres enough room to pull to side, and yesathought it spins by hand i like to see it spin under load. its possible you have a bad capacitor

the power surge probably shorted out something in the main wire harness or fried your motor. remove the screws from the control panel and look for any wires that are discolored, charred or disconnected. in the event you do't find it there trace the wiring thru the cabinet looking for the same thing. if you don't find that, replace the motor