Why won't washer agitate, spin or drain? Is this a roller kit problem? Do I need a new transmission? Input would be appreciated, thanks!

There are a few potential causes for your Roper washer not spinning or draining:

1. Drive belt: If the drive belt is broken or slipping, it could prevent the tub from spinning. Check the belt for any signs of damage or wear, and make sure it is properly tensioned.
2. Lid switch: Even though you said the lid switch is ok, it's still worth checking it again as it is responsible for ensuring that the washer will not spin or drain unless the lid is closed.
3. Motor coupler: The motor coupler connects the motor to the transmission and can wear out over time. If it has failed, the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the coupler for any signs of wear or damage.
4. Drain pump: A clogged drain pump or pump motor failure can prevent the washer from draining. Check the pump and clean out any debris that may be blocking it.
5. Control board: The control board could also be a potential culprit, especially if the washer is not completing cycles correctly. Check the board for any signs of damage or malfunction.
6. Transmission: If none of the above solutions work, there may be an issue with the transmission. This will require a professional repair.

I hope this helps you diagnose and fix the issue with your Roper washer.

you need a new lid switch google model number and order new one

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Lid Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission. Another common problem is the lid switch.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin properly.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer spin the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

Drive Block If the washer won't spin the drive block might be worn out or may have come loose. Underneath the agitator the drive block connects the inner tub (the one that spins around) to the transmission. If the drive block wears out the transmission shaft will still spin but the tub may not - or it may spin slowly. This also usually causes a lot of noise. The drive block is relatively easy to replace.

Clutch Assembly If the washer won't spin, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Clutch Band kit If the washer won't spin, the clutch band kit might be worn out. The clutch makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. If the washer won't spin, this clutch band kit may need to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged It will have to be replaced.

Tub Bearing If the washer won't spin the tub bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer won't spin the tub seal and bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Bearing If the washer won't spin the bearing might have seized. This is not common. The bearing doesn't require any normal maintenance. They generally go bad when the tub seal fails and allows water to leak past into the bearing.
Basket Drive If the washer won't spin the basket drive clutch might be worn out. The basket drive sits on top of the transmission and engages with the inner tub. If the basket drive wears out the tub won't spin.

Basket Drive Hub Kit If the washer won't spin the basket drive hub might be worn out. The hub is a set of plastic gears underneath the agitator. The basket drive hub kit is easy to replace with standard hand tools.
Transmission If the washer won't spin the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are numerous more likely causes when a washer won't spin, which should be checked first.

WASHER FILLS WITH WATER, THEN WON'T AGITATE. TURN KNOB TO SPIN AND IT DRAINS THEN SPINS. STILL WON'T AGITATE please show me a diagram

To begin there should be a good coupling between the motor and transmission, would assume it is ok as it agitates. Also there should be the motor running in drain and spin on the timer as it is draining and you say the lid switch is ok. The coupling or a bad lid switch are the most common problems on this washer. (a good washer)

The kit you are referring to is called the neutral drain kit, which is fairly simple with instructions. To install it(parts go under top gear in the transmission) however you have to pull the transmission.Suggest also changing the gear case oil but it is your washer. Also before you go this far would pull the agitator(7/16 bolt on top) and check the tub block is not stripped on the spin tube where the two tabs are on the top of the tube. You will pull this out anyway if you decide to disassemble and pull the transmission. When you pull the transmission you will have access to the clutch(if it spins empty but not with a load you need a clutch)
good luck,
spring and Easter are near

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

If the washer will agitate and drain the problem is likely in the transmission.

We had a similar problem:

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

See the following for another description of how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

It sounds like a real pain but if you're willing to get a bit dirty it is worth it.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on how the transmission and neutral drain works.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

If everything else works OK,, including the drain, and the timer moves, the problem could be in the transmission / gearcase.

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again. The Sears site for your washer may have a sub-component section on the gearcase with a part number for the Neutral Drain Assembly repair kit.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to remove the agitators and drum to access the transmission.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

With ours, all told, it cost less than $30 (including new 80-90 weight gear oil) vs. about $170 for a new transmission.

The job is a bit complicated and messy but not too difficult.

This is the basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain two piece agitator model.

There is a Sears repair parts site:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=11029852992

which you can go to to see all of the components.

Since it isn't agitating (I assume not at all rather than just the top part of the agitator. If just the top part isn't turning then the easiest solution is replacing the 4 "agitator dogs" ) the solution points to a couple of places.

1. The motor coupler

#13 on diagram Coupling, motor and isolation Number:3364003Substitution:285753A $18.50 In stock
may be broken. This piece is a fail safe between the motor and transmission. and basically transmits power to the transmission.

If it spins and drains OK, and if you can hear the motor turning, the problem points to the transmission.

Inside the transmission are a number of gears, springs, and plastic cams and levers. Over time one of them may have either broken or worn out.


There is a Whirlpool site with a parts list for their "commercial washer" which is essentially the same as for your washer. On it is a list of all of the components and parts for the washer.

By paging down to and following the diagram of the transmission you should be able to determine which actual part is broken.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

When our washer (12 years old) wouldn't spin, rather than spending $170 for a new transmission, we installed a repair kit into the old one ($15) and the problem was solved.

Hi, The most common problem is the thrust bearing kit. The thrust bearing is located on the lower shaft of the transmission. The kit includes a new pulley and hardware. The part #12002213 also includes instructions.
Please let me know if this helps you or if I can assist you further.

Thanks
Vic