Re: Thermostat touched the metal and shorted out the...
Logic board may need changing .should be able to get one from the dealer .Changing isn't too hard just power down the supply open down the evaporator and change out one jack at a time not forgetting to change out the old thermostat with the new one.
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Electrolysis perhaps. Disimilar metals produce electricity when touching and heated, in some cases in a dead short adding to the problem. I would electricaly insulate one metal from the other or / and use anti electrolosys parts.
Sounds like a compressor burnout. Because the fuse blows every time I recommend that you check the compressor for shorting to ground and depending if the compressor is still under warranty. If burn out has shorted the compressor it will be easily. Check These things=> Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the c.ompressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze Lear how to test compressor windings HERE
What is your model number. When a compressor short cycles it is most time caused by a start relay, start or run capacitor and a defective external overload. Testing the compressor is also recommended before purchasing parts. Leaving the compressor running while it short cycles can also cause the internal overload damage because the compressor overheats while short cycling. Testing a compressor is like this test below.Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
That sounds like the compressor has shorted to ground. You can have it tested to confirm. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
Hello, sounds like a short to ground. Check all the wiring to make sure it is not touching any metal. If the wiring appears ok then the compressor windings are shorted to ground and the compressor will need to be replaced.
Hi, if it keeps blowing this control fuse, you have a dead short on your secondary side, low voltage, 24 volt side of this unit.Look at the thermostat wire at the unit where you are to see if any thing is scored and touching metal. Every part that operates on 24 volts such as a pressure switch, thermostat, flame roll out switch, and even the coil on the contactor that starts the compressor could be shorted. This is a package unit, 3 and a 1/2 tons.Take the low voltage wires loose from the unit and see if the fuse holds. If it does, you have a short in the stat wire any where from there to the stat. If not, most likely the control board is bad. Take out the screws after killing power and work the board out slowly to see the back of it. If its shorted you will see hot or burned spots on it. Its a process of elimination on the low voltage componants. Please let me know how its going, I will be here to help. Shastalaker7
You have something shorted with the W1 terminal. This could be the thermostat wiring or something with the heater control board, relays/contactors etc. You must use a voltage/ohm meter to trace the short out (the short will either be in the coils of the relays, contactors, boards or wiring is touching ground). The problem is not your thermostat. ensure that none of the wires leading into the back of the t-stat are touching the bare metal of another wire, make sure the wiring insulation is not split and touching another wire. Most of all be careful when working around live wiring (electricity applied). If your not comfortable working around electricity, please use a certified repair person. Safety first!!!!!
Hello, usually the breaker will trip when there is a short to ground, this can be a high voltage wire loose and touching the metal or could be that the winding on the compressor has shorted to ground. If all the wires look secure and not touching metal that most likey your compressor is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
CHECK FOR A SHORT SUCH AS A WIRE TOUCHING ANOTHER WIRE OR THE BOARD TOUCHING METAL. MAKE SURE FUSE IS CORRECT AMP. ALSO TURN POWER OFF AT THE OUTDOOR UNIT AND CHECK TO MAKE SURE THERMOSTAT WIRES ARE NOT TOUCHING. IF NONE OF THESE SUGGESTIONS WORK THEN CHANGE YOUR THERMOSTAT. THIS SHOULD SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM.
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