Installing a stering pivot door

Open the hood.

If you need to change the headlight bulb on the driver’s side, remove the air intake cover (see below.)

Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by pulling the connector straight back.
Remove the rubber weather seal by pulling on the tab.

Unclip the end of the hold-down wire from its slot. Pivot it out of the way and remove the bulb.

Insert the new bulb into the hole, making sure the tabs are in their slots. Pivot the hold-down wire back in place and clip the end into the slot.

Install the rubber seal over the back of the headlight assembly. Make sure it is right side up; it is marked TOP.

Push the electrical connector onto the new bulb.

Turn on the headlights to test the new bulb.

(Driver’s side) Reinstall the air intake cover.

If you are working on the driver’s side: Remove the two pins holding the air intake cover by pulling the head on each pin (careful, I think these are the kind of heads that do not come all the way out, but only far enough so the pin can be removed) . Remove the air intake cover.

Hope this helps you.

go to ebay motors and search your year make model then service repair manual obtain a cd repair manual it has extensive wiring schematics and electrical component locator in it along with repair procedures and illustrations for about $20.00

1. Open the hood.

2. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by squeezing the connector on both sides to unlock the tab. Pull the connector straight off.

3. Remove the rubber weather seal by pulling on the tab.

4. Unclip the end of the hold-down wire from its slot. Pivot it out of the way and remove the bulb.

5. Insert the new bulb into the hole, making sure the tabs are in their slots. Pivot the hold-down wire back in place and clip the end into the slot.

6. Install the rubber seal over the back of the headlight assembly. Make sure it is right side up; it is marked "TOP".

7. Push the electrical connector onto the new bulb. Turn on the headlights to test the new bulb.

Hope this helps you.

1. Open the hood. If you need to change a bulb on the passenger's side, remove the air intake cover (the air cleaner housing is on the passenger's side of the engine compartment. Remove the two pins holding the air intake cover by pulling the head on each pin, then remove the air intake cover).
2. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by squeezing the connector on both sides to unlock the tab. Pull the connector straight off.
3. Remove the rubber weather seal by pulling on the tab.
4. Unclip the end of the hold-down wire from its slot. Pivot it out of the way and remove the bulb.
5. Insert the new bulb into the hole, making sure the tabs are in their slots. Pivot the hold-down wire back in place and clip the end into the slot.
6. Install the rubber seal over the back of the headlight assembly. Make sure it is right side up; it is marked "TOP".
7. Push the electrical connector onto the tabs of the new bulb. Make sure it locks in place. Turn on the headlights to test the new bulb.
8. (Passenger's side) Reinstall the air intake cover.
Hope this helps you.

disconnect power take pump out remove front plate take back cover off motor use 7/16 wrench to hold shaft unless it has a place for a flat head screw driver at the back of the motor while holding shaft unscrew impellar counter clockwise take shaft seal off impellar make sure rubber gromet comes off with seal take back seal plate off motor by unscrewing bolts thru back of motor should be 4 knock out ceramic ring replace ceramic ring with rubber side toward plate reinstal back plate install seal on impeller with with flat side with rubber gromet toward back of impellar. screw impeller back on holding shaft if the shaft is rusty and pitted clean off with sand paper b4 reinstalling impellar lube up oring around front plate screw back tight and reinstal pump.

Yes it can be put back on without taking the drum apart. The larger end goes on the drum side. Fit larger end around drum lip make sure it seals all the way around, install spring around seal. Smaller end goes around door opening. Install seal around outter lip and install spring around seal.

Well, I got the latch and spring back into my DX7630, and so far (half an hour after) so good.

To do this, I had a replacement latch from U.S. Camera ($10 total, latch plus shipping and handling) and the original spring on hand. I took all of the eight screws holding the camera body together. I also pulled off the "rubber" hand grip on the front of the camera. I'm not sure if that was necessary or not, but in doing it I broke off one of the "claws" that secure the grip.

Then I turned the camera so the battery door was on top, opened the door, and gently pried the camera body halves apart. I used "square" wooden toothpicks to hold the body apart so I could get at the latch area. (The battery was not in the camera during all this work.)

There are two small slots in the camera body where the latch is held and pivots. The latch pivots can be slipped into those slots if the toothpicks have the body wedged open widely enough.

The hard part of the assembly is getting that latch spring properly mounted. The spring fits over the rod of the latch. The spring wire has two ends: one is shorter. The shorter-end goes behind the latch on the memory card side. The longer-end makes the job difficult. It must be held so that the spring is under tension while the battery side latch pivot is slipped into its slot, then the memory card side latch pivot is slipped into its slot. The longer spring-end presses against the camera body.

The latch and spring only flew away into the darkness of this room once during the effort, and that happened because I tested the latch a few times before closing the camera body. The body halves should be closed before doing any latch testing.

I put all the screws back into the camera snapped the rubber hand grip back in, put in a battery and a memory card, and at this writing, all seems to be working as designed. Hooray!

Loosen 2 pivot bolts on back of pump, 13mm. then loose one bolt on bottom/front. Turn adjustment bolt on right side/bottom of pump to loosen belt. Once belt if off, remove all of the bolts connection pump to engine bracket. Remove hoses going to pump. Install new one, filled up with fluid. Now you have to bleed air out of sys. Move steering wheel left/right to the stops. Do this about 10 times either direction.

Not a hard task if you coat rims with liquid detergent before trying to install new seal.
Using thumb go slowly around rim working seal all the way back.
Replacing main spring can be done by working bottom to top and then hold left side of spring in place while you pull right side in with long nose pliers.A couple of minutes difficult work and your 90% done.
Care is required so as not to puncture seal,
Main point is to ensure seal is fully seated before applying spring.
Having machine laid on its back makes the job so much easier.

This job took an hour and 30 minutes, the hour spent checking the internet first.
Good luck
Kevin

when you open the door you find a this wire clamp round the edge of the door seal, this just comes off with little force, this has to go back on obviously so don't bend it, the door seal just folds back on itself, the clamp on the drum end is often a large thin spring, and that also just pulls off, the seal then also comes away with a little pull, the new seal is fitted with the groove either side of the drum lip, then the spring is put back, take note how all is removed before working on it? the front of the seal is fitted then the wire, close the door to check a tight but easy fit, check for any leaks and correct fitting before leaving machine unattended any time, sound worse that what it actually is, if i have helped rate me,