HOW DO YOU FIX A SQUEAKY OVEN DOOR? - Jenn-Air JES9860 Electric Kitchen Range

You may need to slide the dishwasher out slightly. On both sides at the floor level are the door springs, pulley, and cables. The cable is usually attached to the door hinge--then goes around the pulley wheel and goes back to the spring system. Most noise comes from the hinge pivot point or the pulley axle. You can spray all those parts with something like WD40 or if you don't like that smell try a silicone spray. Do both sides and work the door up and down.

Thank you for your post, friend!

I see that you need assistance in repairing a squeaky door on your Frigidaire dishwasher. The best way to quiet down a squeaky door is to pinpoint the cause of the squeak. This could be an issue with your hinges, springs, or the cables. You can use a lubricant such as WD-40 on your those parts to see if that will help alleviate the squeaking. Hope this is helpful. -Matt

Super glue, hot glue, or J. B. Weld would all work, if applied neatly in minimal quantities to squeaky clean, dry surfaces which are then clamp lightly until the glue sets.

Your best bet is to pull out all the old seal you can, and to trim what's firm with a razor blade.

Sand it smooth if necessary, then clean it squeaky and apply new caulk / silicone sealant.

Leave the door open to allow it to dry out overnight.

If it's not repaired, moisture can cause rust, which will lead eventually disintegrate the metal and lead to to arcing and possible fire in time.

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You need to clean it, sand it shiny, then clean it squeaky again.

If the cavity metal of the oven is cracked or split, you can use a small amount of steel-based epoxy such as JB-WELD to patch the crack or hole.

Once that dries thoroughly, you can sand it very smooth.

Then you can apply some high-temperature appliance paint, available from places like Wal-Mart, Lowe's or Builder's Square.

I would suggest you let it dry overnight with the door open before using the oven.

If your waveguide cover / stirrer cover is burned, it will need to be replaced.

It provides critical protection for the magnetron.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

In the future, I would advise wiping down the walls & ceiling anytime steam and moisture have accumulated in the oven, or at least leave the door open until it dries out.

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Put a few drops of WD 40 oil on the hinges supporting the oven door

It can be oiled with something akin to Pam (cooking oil spray). You don't want petroleum products in your oven -- it'd take forever to get the fumes out.

I'd try first just spraying some under the turntable as far back toward the center as you can get it -- run oven -- spray some more, etc., etc.

Charlie

Some good old WD40 would take that nosie away or you can use soe motor oil on the henge. I hope this helps.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/edwy_1a56970cf1ea4620

You may need to reinforce it with a little epoxy. I prefer JB Weld for this task.

The area has to be squeaky clean and dry for the epoxy to bond, and it should be left untouched overnight to cure.

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Actually, the spring is probably okay. What breaks is either the latch head (with the hook-like protrusions) OR the spring mounting tab on the inner side of the outer door panel. The spring connects to both of these parts. The outer door panel is not availablke as a separate part, so if that's where the break is, you'll have to get a bit creative and clean it squeaky and use epoxy (like JB Weld, but never use "super glue") or you can drill into the panel slightly and install a small screw eye or glue it in place. Even if the spring mount on the inner door panel is not yet broken, while you're in there, it's a good idea to clean it squeaky and add some epoxy to strengthen it. To get to the screws, you have to remove the choke cover (see sample photo below). It's usually not necessary and is better not to remove the door. You can set the oven on its left side on a table top, open the door carefully, and ease it down to the table top. Then you have a level, stable area to work on the door. If the problem is the latch head (ref # 5-2-2) then I would recommend replacing that part instead of gluing it. That's because the new part may be an improved version. Plus you'll start out fresh. The part # is LSTPPB030MRF0 (zero on the end, not an "oh") You can order Sharp parts from http://wwww.wehaveparts.com You can find a helpful exploded view of the door here: http://207.234.249.73/mwd/r1480_control_door_exp.pdf