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I take it you mean the wheel will not sllp off the hub after removing the wheel nuts? Corrosion most likely is causing the wheel to bind onto the hub. An OEM wheel and hub are both steel and susceptible to corrosion.
Spray some WD40 at the wheel-hub area. Give it time to soak in. With a sledgehammer, strike the tire from the outside, evenly and firmly to try and loosen the rust buildup. Bang on the tire first, then on the wheel if you have to but be careful not to dent the wheel or knock off a balance weight. Then strike the tire/wheel from the inside (or backside) - again, evenly by rotating the tire as you strike it. You can even take some heat to it, but not so hot that the hub turns red as you can melt away the wheel bearing grease. Good luck.
Most common is the tie rod ends.
Then the upper and lower ball joints.
If any of these parts get replaced, you need an alignment or you will destroy the front tires.
It is inside the right front fender, just in front of the tire (passenger side). You will need to remove the forward wheel well skirt from the fender and front air dam to access. Providing its a Chevy Cavalier rather than the Toyota Cavalier which I'm not familiar with.
on my 96 Cavalier, it's at the front, on the passenger side, and you can see it if you get under the car. Kind of in front of the tire (very near the front bumper).
going from a 205 to a 195 is going to be a narrower tire. I am doing this now on my truck. I am going from a 305 to a 275. going from a 70 to a 65 is going to be slightly shorter of a tire. the opening will still be 15 inches. hope this helps.
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