The wind will not turn the blades even at 10mphs

There are two windings in the motor, a starting winding and a running winding. There's also a centrifugal starting switch in the motor that switches from the starting winding to the running winding once the motor gets up to speed. Sometimes the switch can get stuck and you almost have to give the blade a spin with your hand to get it moving-- and then it moves slowly till it picks up speed.
A rating on that saw complains it doesn't have a whole lot of power, but yours doesn't sound like its under-designed -- it sounds like there's something wrong. Does it smell hot when running? Does the arbor turn freely? Are you using a long extension cord? (dont!)
I hope you don't need a new motor ($255)
If you do, I'd sell the thing for parts on CraigsList and look for another saw in the same place. I bought one table saw on craigslist for $60 and another for $45. (You might have to watch the listings every day for a year or so to get those kind of prices.) Both of the ones I bought are belt-drive contractor's saws with a 1.5 hp motor outside the box on the back side of the saw.

The narrow blade is the hot or black wire and the wide blade is your neutral neutral. Use an ohm meter, connect one of the ohm meter probe on the wide blade and the other meter probe on the end of each wire. which ever one gives you a reading is the neutral or white wire. You may want to next time, label the wires before you disconnect them.

Replace receptacle.
buy new receptacle.
Turn off power.
Pull out receptacle.
Connect black hot wires to side with narrow blade.
White neutral wires to side with wide blade.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Outlet-polarity-200.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Switch-quick-connect-400.jpg

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Yes.
The code is maximum 12 boxes per circuit breaker.
You can connect a 12-2 NM W/G cable to one of the outlets. Black-to-black and white-to-white and ground-to-ground. Black is hot, white is neutral, and ground is ground. And bring that cable into a hollow-wall box you install 50" high on the wall. Then run the 12-2 cable up to your light fixture.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GE-15312-single-a-300.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/OWB1.html

You can also replace one of the outlets with a combo switch-outlet. The run singe 12-2 cable up to light.
This wiring diagram shows half way down how-to-wire-switches page.
Outlets have wide blade on neutral side, and narrow blade on hot side.
The black hot wires from old outlet connect to side of combo device with narrow blade.
The white neutrals from old outlet, and new wire going to switch, all connect to silver screw on wide-blade side of new combo device.
The black wire going to new light connects to screw next to switch located on wide-blade side of device.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

I agree.
I test timers.
Brinks timers are near lowest quality of all timer brands, yet all timer manufactures sell lower end products to meet price points. Brinks are probably made by one of the bigger brands.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Woods-timers-and-manuals.html#Brinks
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/UPM-timers-and-manuals.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-consumer-timers-and-manuals.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-set-timers.html

Test your outlet with cheap circuit analyzer from box store to make sure that polarity of outlet is not reversed. Notice that Brinks timers, like most plug-in timers, have polarized plug.
Polarized plug has wide and narrow blades so they plug into outlet correctly.
Wide blade is for Neutral, and narrow blade is for Hot.
If outlet has polarity reversed, this will adversely affect timer motors, and other appliances.

clean dust off the wheels, center the blade get it tracking and tension it so it has a medium high to (wide blade) high pitch (narrow blade) twang like a guitar sting when plucked with the saw turned off

The cord that runs to your light contains two wires.
The cord switch interrupts one wire.
The second wire runs uninterrupted between wall plug and light.

The photo below is not the same switch as yours, but it shows how one wire is interrupted and the other wire is uninterrupted.



Which wire do you want to interrupt?
Look at the wall plug.
Is the plug polarized, where one blade of the plug is wider?
If the plug is polarized, then one blade is wide and the other is narrower.
Each blade of the plug feeds one of the two wires going to lamp.
Locate the narrower blade, and the wire that comes from that side of plug.
The narrow-blade wire is the wire you want to interrupt when installing the cord switch.

If the plug is not polarized, then choose one wire.

Narrow throat plate should work. Sure you have the blade installed correctly with arbor washers?

remember to match the blade width to the type of cutting you are doing. Also keep in mind: * Narrow Blades can make much tighter radius cuts, but tend to twist and wander when making long straight cuts. * Wide Blades can't make the tight turns that narrow ones can, but they hold a straighter line than their narrow counterparts. * The tpi determines the speed with which the blade cuts through stock. Blades with high tpi cut slower but leave a very smooth edge. They are best for detail work on thin stock. Blades with low tpi cut quickly and leave a slightly rough edge. They are great for resawing or long rip cuts. * Steel Blades are inexpensive and work well for cutting softwood. Steel blades, however, dull quickly in hardwood. * Bimetal Blades are made of high-speed steel and can cut thin metal or wood. * Carbide Blades are for wood cutting only. They are more expensive than other blades but stay sharper longer than steel or high-speed steel.

Blade Width is important when purchasing a band saw. Most saws accept narrow 1/8" blades for cutting detailed designs and tight curves. Better saws also accept wider blades. Wide blades don’t flex as much as narrow ones, but they make accurate straight cuts in thick stock quicker. There are also some wide blades available that can cut metal.