Trying to remove part that fits on motor shaft.

what brand of starter motor is it ( bosh, delco , lucas, mitsubishi etc)
go google and type in-- repair manual for ( make ) starter motor
if there is a pdf version download it
maybe a photo of the part would help as well

There is no trick, just brute force. You will need to renew the chopping blade and the plastic sleeve it fits on to as both will be damaged and it will happen again, more easily each time. Your local Kitchen Aid service agent will have figured out a tool to get them off. My tool involves a chain shackled around the centre of the blade and the other end attached to my bench. I accelerate the motor unit away from the bench by hand and when the chain goes bang tight the blade comes off. No bowl damage that way. Similar method to remove motor sleeve with hole drilled through top of shaft sleeve for shackle.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Take off the rear cover as to expose the capacitor. Remove capacitor. Place a 7/16 wrench on the shaft threw the opening where you removed the capacitor. Put a rag on the impeller and with a wrench turn it counterclockwise. It should come off easily. Make sure you replace the seals before reassembling

Might be a screw in middle of impeller with reverse thread. If so, remove. Remove back cover of motor, hold center shaft with wrench and unscrew impeller from shaft.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.26902692

See the section on the motor and gearcase.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's possible that the noise and no agitate or spin are because the coupler has failed.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

The most likely cause of a burnt rubber smell is a worn motor coupler.

Sears parts site

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.24922200&pop=flush

Go to the sub section with the brake/clutch/motor/gearcase and item # 13 is the motor coupler between the motor and transmission.

It has three parts. 1. A plastic piece with three prongs fits on the transmission input shaft. 2. A plastic piece with three prongs fits on the motor output shaft and 2. a RUBBER grommet with 6 holes fits between them.

Over time, the rubber piece can wear and the two plastic pieces can rub against it at speed causing a rubber burning smell.

Replacing one is easy.

Remove the cabinet, the pump (2 clips) the motor (two screws and clips) and the motor mounting bracket (two 1/2: bolts).

Remove the rubber piece and pry off the two plastic pieces. Fit the new plastic pieces on the transmission and motor shafts. Replace the mounting plate. Carefully line up the six holes as you put the motor back on.

Replace the motor mounting clips, the pump and clips and cabinet.

I removed the impeller on my DW761UQB. The instructions were molded into the plastic pump housing. This is how I DID MINE: Remove motor mount screws. Remove the chopper screw (screw only goes into impeller, not motor shaft). Remove chopper and rotate/remove strainer. Place socket or wrench on impeller tip and place another wrench on rear of motor's plastic fan. Unscrew fan from impeller shaft ( threads are LEFT handed, turn CW). Once fan is 'backed off' of the impeller, CAREFULLY pry the motor/fan from pump housing (impeller is attached to motor shaft via splines). Don't crack the delicate plastic pump housing. Mine was stuck, but separated with moderate force. Now remove the impeller/seals from the pump housing. This worked for MY above mentioned model, I don't know what other models it applies to. I am not a pro.

the coupling does go bad, Often, very often
one of the two spiders is attached to the motor shaft, one is attached to the gearbox input shaft and the rubber ring mates them together, the motor shaft coupling collapses often,
the coupling is ~$16-$25 depending on the parts sales place.
If you can see the coupling, you probably already have the body off,
If not remove the body
from there its easy to replace

undo 2 spring clips that hold the pump on the outer of the motor,
pull pump forward and off the motor shaft and swing aside,
remove screw from head of spring clip between motor and gearbox, remove this spring clip (remember position)
swing motor against coupling to loosen other spring clip, remove spring clip
pull motor forward and away from gearbox
break couplings off shaft of motor and gearbox.

• NOTE: new coupling sets have a metal center hub to combat this very common failure,
  ask the parts supplier if they have one with metal hubs,
  if they offer to sell you one identical to the picture, all plastic, old style

Fit new couplings to motor and gearbox shaft using wooden dowel between the teeth, on the hub centers, hit the dowel, not the gear, with a hammer.
fit new rubber ring to gearbox,
install in reverse order
rotate motor to align the teeth

The black plastic clutch has a left-handed brass threaded insert. Temporarily remove the motor to hold the shaft and remove the brass insert by rotating clockwise.