Maytag Neptune Top Load FAV6800AWW -- tub/motor will not spin

2:30 am mistake...... P2 Torque (to Motor Controller) see page 1-9 MAH3000 2:30 am mistake...... P2 Torque (to Motor Controller) see page 1-9 MAH3000

Cameron,

I know you are being asked for measurements on the Motor resistance windings and the Tach output pins. I have a known good motor and here are my DVM ohm meter readings. I have the motor on my work bench so the readings come from the motor socket but they all confirm the FAV6800AW/FVA9800AW maintenance limit range.

Tach output pins 4&5 on the motor socket = 183 Ohms



3 phase windings of the motor socket =



1 & 2 = 6.2 Ohms

2 & 3 = 6.2 Ohms

1 & 3 = 6.2 Ohms



This SM is poor for support regarding this issue, the MAH3000 SM is much better.



I feel to really troubleshooting without known good components for swap out, Motor Controller, Control Board and Motor will be very difficult. If you get the nominal resistance readings on the motor then I would say the motor is good.



For me to troubleshoot without swapping out components of a known good Motor Controller and Control Board I would need to know what the digital output signal from the Control Board (Torque) to the input to the Motor Control Board would look like on an O-Scope. I would have to see good 3 phase AC voltage readings to the motor windings and observe motor tach output to the Motor Control board and then to the input of the Control Board. I believe only us die hard DIY’ers who have access to a dual trace O-scope would go to that extreme in troubleshooting.



So where would I go from here as an owner. I would check/reseat all plug and socket connections going to the Control Board and on the Control Board except the ribbon cable form the console to the Control Board, that ribbon cable is fragile and is not causing this issue.



I still lean toward a Motor Control board issue (WAG) and that is the only major part I don’t have in my machine spares, I’m watching ebay If you were near the 19344 area I would bring over to you a spare Control Board (I got from Maytag) and a my known good motor.



“”When I set a washing cycle (e.g. normal, whites, etc) from the top control panel, or if I select the spin only cycle, when I click the start button I can hear a "click" coming from somewhere at the top [main] control board, then followed shortly by another click from somewhere down below around the base area, which I assume is coming from the motor control board.”” The relay click you hear from the Console I believe is related to the Motor Control relay switching 120VAC down to the Motor Controller. I haven’t pulled out my Motor Controller out so I can’t speak to a possible relay on the Motor Control Board, I don’t believe there is.



Watch the motor as you press the start button Spin Only cycle. Do you see the motor move slightly CCW? Not sure where the “click” sound comes from the area near the motor/motor control board. If the motor glitches CCW it could be from the large wrap spring in the Clutch Pulley.



This not a clutch issue we have to get the motor to turn CCW for Spin Cycle and CW of Agitate/Wash cycle.



Rich Cameron,
I know you are being asked for measurements on the Motor resistance windings and the Tach output pins. I have a known good motor and here are my DVM ohm meter readings. I have the motor on my work bench so the readings come from the motor socket but they all confirm the FAV6800AW/FVA9800AW maintenance limit range.
Tach output pins 4&5 on the motor socket = 183 Ohms

3 phase windings of the motor socket =

1 & 2 = 6.2 Ohms
2 & 3 = 6.2 Ohms
1 & 3 = 6.2 Ohms

This SM is poor for support regarding this issue, the MAH3000 SM is much better.

I feel to really troubleshooting without known good components for swap out, Motor Controller, Control Board and Motor will be very difficult. If you get the nominal resistance readings on the motor then I would say the motor is good.

For me to troubleshoot without swapping out components of a known good Motor Controller and Control Board I would need to know what the digital output signal from the Control Board (Torque) to the input to the Motor Control Board would look like on an O-Scope. I would have to see good 3 phase AC voltage readings to the motor windings and observe motor tach output to the Motor Control board and then to the input of the Control Board. I believe only us die hard DIY’ers who have access to a dual trace O-scope would go to that extreme in troubleshooting.

So where would I go from here as an owner. I would check/reseat all plug and socket connections going to the Control Board and on the Control Board except the ribbon cable form the console to the Control Board, that ribbon cable is fragile and is not causing this issue.

I still lean toward a Motor Control board issue (WAG) and that is the only major part I don’t have in my machine spares, I’m watching ebay If you were near the 19344 area I would bring over to you a spare Control Board (I got from Maytag) and a my known good motor.

“”When I set a washing cycle (e.g. normal, whites, etc) from the top control panel, or if I select the spin only cycle, when I click the start button I can hear a "click" coming from somewhere at the top [main] control board, then followed shortly by another click from somewhere down below around the base area, which I assume is coming from the motor control board.”” The relay click you hear from the Console I believe is related to the Motor Control relay switching 120VAC down to the Motor Controller. I haven’t pulled out my Motor Controller out so I can’t speak to a possible relay on the Motor Control Board, I don’t believe there is.

Watch the motor as you press the start button Spin Only cycle. Do you see the motor move slightly CCW? Not sure where the “click” sound comes from the area near the motor/motor control board. If the motor glitches CCW it could be from the large wrap spring in the Clutch Pulley.

This not a clutch issue we have to get the motor to turn CCW for Spin Cycle and CW of Agitate/Wash cycle.

Rich

Hey Cameron ,

As I mentioned in my first post without having known good parts this would be a difficult problem to troubleshoot for me as an owner and I feel a repair person would be in the same boat. You have good resistance readings off the motor windings and the tach pins on the motor per the FAV6800AW Service Manual maintenance limits. You do what I call a static test “”Motor Control Board Output Test”” where the motor controller places 120VAC on a set of motor windings and the test passes. My understanding is the Motor Controller takes single phase 120VAC and converts that to 3 phase 120VAC to control the direction and speed of the motor. The Motor spins CCW for spin cycle and CW for wash/agitate cycle. That control signal comes from the Control Board to the Motor Controller. I mentioned the Motor Controller would have been my first choice next the Control Board. See if you can get Maytag to send you one. As I mentioned the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW manual leaves a lot to be desired for troubleshooting support.





I don’t think your new LR error code is coming from any binding in the clutch or transmission. With power off see if you can rotate the clutch pulley CCW by hand several times. Have someone observe the wash basket it should rotate CCW. Then Rotate the Clutch Pulley CW and the tumblers should rotate. You can also lift the lid of the washer and you should be able to rotate the wash basket CCW with one finger and have very low rotation resistance. The wash basket will not rotate CW. That would give us some feel if there is high rotational resistance that could be caused by the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing, transmission or binding within the Spinner Assembly. If you haven’t had a clutch issue in the past trust me you will down the road.







If you have severe binding I would think you might take some belt screech. I know of one user that reported that with the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing rusted/frozen up.



Good Luck Rich Hey Cameron ,
As I mentioned in my first post without having known good parts this would be a difficult problem to troubleshoot for me as an owner and I feel a repair person would be in the same boat. You have good resistance readings off the motor windings and the tach pins on the motor per the FAV6800AW Service Manual maintenance limits. You do what I call a static test “”Motor Control Board Output Test”” where the motor controller places 120VAC on a set of motor windings and the test passes. My understanding is the Motor Controller takes single phase 120VAC and converts that to 3 phase 120VAC to control the direction and speed of the motor. The Motor spins CCW for spin cycle and CW for wash/agitate cycle. That control signal comes from the Control Board to the Motor Controller. I mentioned the Motor Controller would have been my first choice next the Control Board. See if you can get Maytag to send you one. As I mentioned the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW manual leaves a lot to be desired for troubleshooting support.


I don’t think your new LR error code is coming from any binding in the clutch or transmission. With power off see if you can rotate the clutch pulley CCW by hand several times. Have someone observe the wash basket it should rotate CCW. Then Rotate the Clutch Pulley CW and the tumblers should rotate. You can also lift the lid of the washer and you should be able to rotate the wash basket CCW with one finger and have very low rotation resistance. The wash basket will not rotate CW. That would give us some feel if there is high rotational resistance that could be caused by the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing, transmission or binding within the Spinner Assembly. If you haven’t had a clutch issue in the past trust me you will down the road.



If you have severe binding I would think you might take some belt screech. I know of one user that reported that with the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing rusted/frozen up.

Good Luck Rich