I'm not trying to start a clean cycle, justa regular wash. i had turned off circuit breakers yesterday and turned them back on seconds later ot address another issue in my house and now this is happening with my washer. related? and it's a front-loader, for whatever that's worth. thanks!
SOURCE: My Kenmore Elite front loader has no power.
the power is on but the start button does not start the machine
SOURCE: Kenmore HE2 front load washer. All cycle lights flashing plus spin and clothes clean lights on.
I'm sure this is probably too late, but hopefully it will help some else. I just had the same problem. First, unplug the power. Then take the lower front panel off and grabbed a bucket. Place the bucket under the large "plug" on your right. This is the drain. Slowly unscrew the drain plug, Hold your nose as it will probably smell. Allow the water and such to drain into the bucket. When you see the blob of wet lint drop into the bucket you will know why the machine refused to work. Make sure you clean the drain plug and screw it back in tightly. Put the lower panel back on and reconnect the power. I hope this resolves your issue.
SOURCE: kenmore he2 plus front loader washing machine
The rL error code during the clean cycle is likely caused by friction on the spin basket shaft since you indicate that you hear squeaking when the washer is spinning. The squeaking is normally caused by a bad bearing in the rear tub shell. I recommend that you have the washer diagnosed and repaired by a Sears service technician. This type of problem will normally require an extensive tear down of the washer to repair. It is not a problem that you can normally repair yourself.
Open the door & slowly rotate the spin basket to see if you can feel any kind of drag on the bearings. If the bearings check good, the control board is sensing a load & will need to be replaced.
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SOURCE: My Kenmore HE2 plus frontloading washer is
The rl code is displayed when the control detects a load of clothes in the washer during the clean washer cycle.
This code should only come up when you're trying to run a clean cycle.
There can be two causes for this message if there are no clothes in the washer while you're running the clean washer cycle.
The most serious cause of the problem would be the spin bearing. Try and turn the basket by hand and see if you fill any restrictions.
The basket can drab because of the bearing or because there are clothes between the spin basket and outer tub.
Turn the basket by hand and see if you notice anything.
You can also try to remove the belt and run the clean cycle and see if the problem repeats. If the code doesn't repeat with the belt off and there is nothing between the tub and spin basket most likely the spin bearing will have to be replaced. The bearing is part of the rear half of the tub and will require a complete tear down to change.
The rL error code during the clean cycle is likely caused by friction on the spin basket shaft since you indicate that you hear squeaking when the washer is spinning.
The squeaking is normally caused by a bad bearing in the rear tub shell.
I recommend that you have the washer diagnosed and repaired by a Sears service technician.
This type of problem will normally require an extensive tear down of the washer to repair.
It is not a problem that you can normally repair yourself.
Open the door & slowly rotate the spin basket to see if you can feel any kind of drag on the bearings.
If the bearings check good, the control board is sensing a load & will need to be replaced.
If the message rl repeats with the belt off then the most likely cause of this problem is the machine control board.
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SOURCE: I have been trying to run the clean cycle on my
It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
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