Using front left burner back burner will turn on without turning knob for left back?

Can you get to the switch terminals and try jumping them out with a piece of insulated wire? That would tell you if the switch is defective (my suspicion). Please be careful not to touch any live terminals - only the wire insulation you use for the jumper.

so sorry for the way late reply!
if the knob does not fit you'll need a new one...
i found them here....
https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/c31-x72636333303234/Rcc3024-Knob-Dial-Button-Parts
not sure which is yours as the model # should have a few more # or letters. Take a look at them and see if one matches.
best to you.

you have a bad set of switches and or a spark mod..

You may already be aware of this but ... If our ilve ceran cooktop is the same as yours turn the knob past the 12 setting till you feel pressure and it springs back. This is the switch to fire up the marked outer elements.

Wiring is wrong. Front burner knob is connected to back burner.

It works now.After two days of trying, it now works like it should. I'm thinking something needed to dry.

it is strange that you have no gas and no spark! if you held a match to the burner and turned the burner valve on it would lite di spite a failed ignitor,but for it not to lite, the burner valve[its what the knob attaches too] would have to be blocked[thats rare]or ........i got it .....the knob is broken.thats the only thing the burner valve and the spark ignitor have in common.try a knob from another burner................again.you have spark,because others are working.spark on troubled burner would work if valve blocked at orifice outlet,and if spark failed you would still get gas they work independent of each other,[but in unison].thats why im thinking knob.its the item that works both .when you turn the knob it opens the gas valve and as the gas valve rotates by turning the knob it activates or turns the spark switch so it closes the curcit allowing the electricty to the spark moduel.hey i hope that helps a little. God bless ,tom

It sounds like the round burner orifices are dirty. Remove the round orifices and clean in warm soapy water, using a plastic scrubber or toothbrush to remove and dirt and residue around the sides of the burner. Do the same on the little electrode that protrudes at some position around the burner orifice seat.

The system works by the spark ignition module knowing a gas knob is open, and sensing for a flame by ionization within the exhaust gases of the flame. If things are dirty, then the module cannot read the ionization and shuts down the burner, and will also cause the spark to continue.

Also make sure all the burner orifices are properly seated in their holder. If not, the same thing will happen.

is this a sealed burner unit? if so the burner base (the heavy brass part under the burner cap) has to be sitting just right. you will notice that it has holes around the the sides make sure that where your ignitor sparks to it that it aligns with the lowest hole on the burner base. if you have a great flame all around the burner after checking what i mentioned i would replace the spark module. if it continues to drive you crazy with the noise - just unplug it. the burners will continue working fine without power.

No recalls that I know of.  The switch for that burner has shorted and will need to be replaced.  It will be fine once it is repaired.