Upper oven door will not close completly to shut off light

Try jiggling the door by the handle. Jiggle it hard, both sideways, in/out and up/down. The little piece in there that releases the door may just be stuck, and didn't move quite far enough to let the door open. These things happen.

Hi someone lifted up on the door this ishowyou remove oven doors open the door about 1/3 then push down towards the floor it should go back into place, if not you may have to remove it clean the hinges then re-install it , I don't think anyone could have bent the hinges cause that would b very hard to do, but i have seen it done before , get back to me Frank

there will be two hinge latches that you flip to stop the door from closing. This will allow you to push the door in and then pull out the bottom. I do not suggenst using the handle as it may cause damage. use one hand on either side of the door, push the door shut and then lift up a bit and pull the hinges out of the holes.

If you removed the door for cleaning, it may not be back on the hinges all the way. If you have not taken the door off, the hinges may be bent. I have seen oven doors where children have hung on them, or someone has placed something very heavy on the door while it is open. this bends the hinges down too far, and will cause the door to remain ajar slightly. Hopefully the hinges are just not seated into the door all the way, and you can just reinstall the door.

Hi,

Seems like you found out the hard way what I wrote about in this tip...

Check it out it also contains some thing to try on how to unlock that oven..

Self Cleaning Oven Problem

heatman101

Asker's Testimonial " Wish I had read this first. I never would have usedthe self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! " - amymrocks

On my double oven the bottom door was not closing by at least 21/2 inches the upper door would allow the light to stay on . Upon close examination this problem appeared to be the door was too low which did not allow the gasket to seat in the oven cavity, holding the door open. new hinges and receptors did not resolve this condition.This is how I corrected this condition. 1 open the doors one at a time and lock the hinges.2 remove the doors from the receptors (be careful they are heavy) and set aside. 3 remove mounting screws holding oven in cabinet. 4 slide oven forward enough to hold onto receptor sockets on left and right sides lower and upper 5 remove receptor sockets by removing the screws in front of oven(be careful to hold on to the receptor so it doesnt fall behind oven into cabinet)7 with a center punch punch a start point 1/8 inch above the existing screw holes and drill appropriate size hole for screw THE HOLES MUST MATCH UPPER AND LOWER RECEPTOR OR THE SCREWS ON THE LOWER DOOR WILL SCRATCH THE UPPER DOOR .8 attach receptors to oven in new holes 9 slide oven back into cabinet and replace screws removed in step three 10 attach doors into receptors and push locks forward into receptor cavity attach lower door first and check for operation then upper door open slowly and check enough clearance exists for the screws on the lower door miss the upper door . If more clearance is needed elongate the holes drilled earlier(repeat steps 1 through 5) and slide receptor up on upper door. NOTE The receptors are not in a sealed space in the oven cavity and are not exposed to any heat. Periodically check the screws for tightness. After performing this procedure Both doors close all the way and the light is no longer a problem Now 20 minutes cook time MEANS 20 MINUTES COOK TIME.
HOPE THIS RESOLVES YOUR PROBLEM !!!!!

push in on the oven light switch and hit clean then cancel you have to hold the oven light switch thats what tells the eoc the door is closed if this dont work reply to me

Most of these I have seen have to have the hinges and recievers replaced to get the doors to close properly and keep the light off.

My mother-in-law's oven was doing the same thing. At first it was actually turning completely off which led me to think it was a loose connection on the circuit board. That turned out to be exactly what it was. I had to dismantle the front of the oven, remove the circuit board, and resolder the connections. The first time I did this I must have missed a few bad joints and that's when it started doing what you described (shuting off and showing lock door). I pulled it back apart and found a few more bad solder joints which I fixed; so far so good. This is of course one of those "don't try this at home" fixes but it least lets you know what is causing the problem.

tde, sounds like your thermal fuse (TC0) opened on the back side of the oven. If this opens, it will shut the oven down. This happens alot during self cleaning on built ins. Sometimes I have to re-route the tco to a different area to prevent this from happening. Your part number is 4451442. You will have to pull the oven out far enough to remove the back paneling and replace the fuse....Catriver..post back.