Dryer does not stop when clothes are dry
Change the sensor
Testimonial: "Thanks. I was suspecting that, but now I must find where it is located. I suspect that I must open the back of the dryer."
SOURCE: Moisture Sensor Location
It could be the sensor. However, check the exhaust vent for restrictions first. you can test the moisture sensor Damp Dry Test 1. Set the following Timer- DAMP DRY Fabric Care/Temperature switch- COTTON HIGH Wrinkle Guard switch- OFF Signal switch- LOUD Door- must be closed 2. Press the PUSH TO START switch. After approximately 16 seconds, the Timer will start to advance to the OFF position, and the ?End of Cycle? signal will sound. If one or more of these functions do not occur, proceed to the Factory Test. Factory Test The Factory Test allows factory/service personnel to test and verify all inputs to the Even Heat control. The basic operation of this test is to notify the operator with an audible beep every time the status of an input to the control changes state. Activating the Test Mode 1. Set the following configuration: Door- must be open Fabric Care/Temperature switch- AIR FLUFF Signal switch- LOUD Timer- TIMED DRY OR AUTO MOISTURE SESING PLUS selection 2. Turn the Wrinkle Guard switch from OFF to ON three times within a five second period. A single beep will sound to indicate that the factory test mode is activated. NOTE: If any of these initial conditions are not satisfied, the control will not enter the test mode. Test Mode Functionality When the control is in the Factory Test mode, every input change of state will result in a beep (with the exception of the Signal switch). This includes: Door switch Moisture Sensor (short/open Sensor will result in a beep) NOTE: A moistened finger or damp cloth may also be used. Fabric Care/ Temperature switch Wrinkle Guard switch Push to Start (PTS) switch (with the door switch closed) Timer (any cam input change will result in a beep) NOTE: Timer will advance during test. If any of the inputs do not result in a beep, proceed to the following component tests If the dryer shuts off too soon when set to the AUTO MOISTURE SENSING PLUS cycle, check the following: -HARNESS/CONNECTION -MOISTURE SENSOR -THERMISTOR -EVEN HEAT CONTROL Procedure: 1. Test the Moisture Sensor by following the procedure outlined in ?Factory Test?, beginning on page 3. If the Moisture sensor fails the ?Factory Test? (does not produce a beep sound), check the Moisture Sensor. a. If there is continuity to Ground for Yellow/Red (Y/R) wire with no load, look for a short in the Sensor or Y/R wire. Verify harness connections both at the Sensor and the Even Heat control. b. If the Sensor and Y/R wire are good, replace the Even Heat control. 2. If Factory Test passed, verify thermistor by performing test procedures outlined in ?Thermistor Test? 3. If problem persists after replacing Moisture Sensor and thermistor
SOURCE: moisture sensor
With out a sensor you auto dry will not work (less dry/more dry)
the sensor is just inside the door to the right two metal lines ... take a wet towel and make sure that the sensor is clean...
I would suggest you check the vent that it is clean and clear and open...
also check the #8577274 Thermistor
hope it helps
SOURCE: clothes still damp after running a cycle on auto moisture setting
Clean the vent hose and vent outlet
SOURCE: Dries clothes but runs too long & clothes VERY hot
Fixable and possibly a warranty claim. The timer is bad. You will need to get behind the control panel and remove the timer and replace the timer. First I would call whoever it is that yall bought the dryer through and see how long your warranty is. Most of the warranties are only 1 year. But if you bought a extended warranty then you are covered. The part can be found at repairclinic.com
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Turning Off before clothes are dry...
Repair of
a Kenmore Electric Dryer Model 110.62942100
Dryer not heating
I just spent several hours
repairing my electric clothes dryer, and wanted to share my experience with
others that may wish to do a similar repair. Some of my time was spent reading online postings similar to
this one. The majority of my time
was spent driving a few times to the Sears Parts Outlet, until I finally got
all of the right parts. I could
have saved myself a lot of time and effort by doing some simple testing up
front. And these tests are real
simple, which I will explain below.
I wish I knew then what I know now about the repair and troubleshooting
steps. It was actually quite easy.
First, the Owner’s Manual is
vague about the repair. Under
troubleshooting, there is the category of “Not Drying Satisfactorily” with a
possible cause that “One fuse is blown or circuit breaker is tripped. The dryer will appear to operate, but
you will not get any heat.” The
solution says “Replace fuse or reset breaker”. In my case, the circuit breaker was obviously not tripped
since the blower motor and controls were still working on the dryer. With that, it felt like the Thermal Fuse
3390719 was the culprit.
Start by unplugging the
dryer. Then, the Toe Panel at the
front bottom of the dryer comes off easily by inserting a flat head screwdriver
along the top edge of the panel, about 4” from the left and the right
sides. Pull forward as the
screwdriver presses on the retaining clips. The panel is supported by two clips at the bottom, and will
then just lift off.
What I found when the toe
panel was removed was several years of lint, dust, and animal hair. A surprising amount all over. Having seen this, I suggest that part
of Spring cleaning is to remove the toe panel and vacuum the inside of a dryer. Next, to reach the thermal fuse easier,
remove the black metal lint duct assembly. Start by removing the lint screen from inside the
dryer. Then, remove the two ¼”
sheet metal screws on the left and the right of the duct. Now, the only thing holding the lint
duct in place is a metal clip at the bottom left, which is pinched in place to
the dryer frame. I used a flat
head screwdriver to pop it off.
The lint duct assembly can now be removed. Here also, I was surprised at how much lint had built up
inside the duct. Clean it out
thoroughly. Any build up can
restrict air flow and waste energy, or be a direct cause to the No Heat
problems of the dryer due to poor air flow and heat build up.
With the lint duct out of the
way, the thermal fuse is accessible on the top right of the blower housing, as
well as the Thermistor 3976615 on its right. What I should have done right here is take the blue wires
off of the thermal fuse connectors, and tested it in place for continuity with
the fuse still in place. Clean off any dust built up on the inner face of the fuse itself. A basic tester sounded a beep when I touched both connectors, which
indicates continuity – or that it is still a good fuse. Install new fuse
if needed, and reconnect the wires.
I would do a little more
testing first prior to attempting to turn the dryer back on. After all, if the fuse blew, there was
a reason. There may still be other
things to consider, and you don’t want to risk blowing a brand new fuse.
At this point, I firmly
recommend removing the Heater Box and Wire Heater Element assembly. I say this because it actually becomes
easier to clean out burnt lint as well as test a few more things. There was enough lint all around and
inside this and in the back of the assembly that could have caused overheating
due to poor sensor readings.
Start by removing the heat
plate at the front. Then, disconnect
the six wires from the three devices:
heater element, Thermal Cut-Off 3977394 and the Thermostat 3390291. I wrote down the color sequence of the
wires to make certain to put them back on the same way. Next, remove the two screws at the
bottom of the mounting plate that holds the assembly in place. The heat assembly should now wiggle
around some, and be connected at the back of the dryer. There are no screws at the back – all
you need to do is rotate the heater assembly counter clockwise about a quarter
turn, and it should come out. The
entire heater assembly can now be removed from the dryer.
With the Greenlee, I tested
for continuity on all three devices: Heater Element, Thermal Cut-Off, and the Thermostat.
All three should return an audible beep from the tester, indicating
continuity exists. In my case,
only the Heater Element was bad and actually had a break in it from
overheating. One screw holds the heater element in
the housing, so it is easily removed.
I had to press on the housing a little to unbind the sides of the heater
element, and then it slid right out.
The housing can now be cleaned out. Assuming the thermal cut-off and the thermostat tested fine
for continuity, all I would do is reach inside the heater housing and clean off
the lint and dust build up on these devices, since they appear to be
working. Install the new heater
element.
While I had everything apart,
I cleaned out the flexible duct in the back, vacuumed everywhere inside and
out, and even used compressed air to clean out any remaining lint and dust that
I could. Reassemble the heater box
into the dryer in reverse order.
Make sure all of the wires are properly reconnected to all of the
devices. Make sure everything is
screwed back together properly.
Now, reassemble the lint duct by attaching the clip to the dryer and
setting the duct in place, and then screwing the two screws back in place. Plug the dryer in and turn it on. If all went well, the
heater element should glow orange and there should be heat
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