GDM12 reach-in just cycle clicks when plugged in - not cooling

Question edited for full 'make model (what it is)'.
Question moved to model category.

I endured a 50 year career in catering and many years fighting refrigeration. The thing I learned that the only thing a normal person / manager / owner could do is clean the condenser fins. anything else is the domain of the refrigeration engineer.

It could be stuck in defrost mode if the defrost cycle is like a heat pump and reverses the cycle to heat the evaporator and cool the condenser. The other possibility is a faulty control board. The only way to fix is to call for service. Tell the engineer everything that happened, as it will speed his diagnosis.

True are a great brand. The place I retired at Toronto Airport was full of them.

https://www.google.com/search?q=True+t35f+heating+cabinet

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Good Afternoon Friend,

I understand your Frigidaire freezer runs for a short time and then kicks off. Then it turns on with a click and repeats its cycle. This is how your freezer functions. When it needs to cool, the compressor will kick on and cool until the temperature is reached. Then it will kick off until it needs to cool again. It's possibly due to the hot and humid summer that it is cycling on and of more. I hope this is helpful.

-Best Regards-
WP

need more info. is the condensor fan running? if not thermostat problem.if it is , is the compressor running or just makes a one time click a few seconds after plugged in? (after unplugged five minutes)... if this is the case it probably needs a new start capacitor (170 uf)..if the compressor is running the larger tube going in the commpressor should be cool about 40-50 after a few minutes .. if not then it is low on refrigerant..R-134 after 1995. or R-12 for older models.. now you also have inside fans and thermo buttons that can not be working.

Numbered 1-9 - one is the warmest setting, nine is the coldest. For a cooler it should be good on 5 for a freezer 7. If it doesnt work well on those settings the thermostat is usually bad.

Without a compressor analizer you will need to check the winding
resistance. or you can just cross your fingers and hope the relay
and start capacitor are the problem. Sounds like the condenser coil was plugged so you could possibly have a locked up compresor.I doubt it is low on refrigerant charge.

evap fans will run continuiously on this unit,it is normal. fans stay on to circuilate air evenly inside unit.

Difficult for you to check this I'm afraid, if the fan on the cooling unit is working unless you have an experienced 'ear' you will not hear the compressor running or worse still occasionally clicking.
Possible faults are
1. Compressor not running (the fan will run even if the compressor does not) electrical fault
2. Compressor seized (consult your service guy) also true for the rest of these
3. Compressor not pumping
4. Refrigerant leak

Not much hope for a cheap repair

1. is light on in side when you open the door. If not check breakers or fuses.
2. Can you hear the compressor running. If not do you hear any clicking sounds.
3. If you hear clicking sounds, try putting a fan on compressor and unplug refrigerator.
4. Wait one hour.
5. plug back in. If compressor starts let it run and see if it cools, if it doesnt, call service man.
6. If it goes back to clicking, call a service man.
let me know if this helps.

If this is not a frost free freezer to determine which component has failed please do the following.

Unplug the freezer wait 5 minutes and plug back in. Listen closely for any sounds by the compressor. If you hear a click or hum followed by a click the problem is the compressor and would cost about $400.00 to repair.

If you do not hear any sounds the problem is most likely the cold control or sometimes called the thermostat.

If this is a frost free unit the problem could be with the defrost cycle or the fan motor.

Most all commercial freezers have some sort of fan delay/ defrost termination device. Commonly called a "Klixon" (pronounced clicks-on). It is a device that is attached to the evap. It's function is to terminate the defrost cycle when the evap reaches a certain temp, say about 50 degrees or so, to ensure there is no build up of frost/ ice on the evap. It then allows the compressor to run, and cool the evap down to a reasonable temp., say about 20 degrees, and then let the evap fan come on. It prevents overloading the compressor during a high temp condition, and it also prevents circulating warm air left from the defrost cycle. I believe this device is most likely your problem. With no air circulating, the box will no cool down.. I have seen them burn and/or slhort internally. They can come apart. too. I would look here for that problem. the True manufacturing website does not give alot of info on this piece of equipment, such as a wiring diagram but manuals are available.
Check this out and let me know how it comes out.