Broken speaker wire

Normally beneath your lovers you will see 2 or 3 white plastic squares/caps/plugs. Popping these out will expose screw heads. The cover then pulls out from bottom and up. Use caution, it's very thin plastic and a bit tricky to remove but it's only 2 or 3 screws.

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If it's your first time in this project, connecting speakers are not simple but you can learn fast. First of all, I don't know the type of speakers you have. Not all speakers are the same, even in sound they're not the same. Some sound superb, others sound just right and many sound like tin cans. Because you have a Kenwood KR-X1000, it looks like you have large speakers. To connect these large speaker you need high quality speaker cables, not cheaper low amp types. Cables for speakers are usually marked with a continuous colored line along one side the cable. This line is an orange color is the cable is 100% copper and is a clear plastic cable (you can see the braided or twisted wire inside), or it could be black plastic with a white or grey colored band on one side of the cable. The colored bands means it's positive side (+). Split the cable ends then splice about half inch and twist the exposed wire. If you have a soldering iron, solder the exposed twisted braids to make it into a single solid wire for easy insertion into the speakers.

Now, I don't know what speakers you have but it doesn't matter, as long as you are aware that there are three types of connections used to connect the wires to the speakers. One type is a snap-on, another type is a squeeze, insert the wire in and let go. This is like a clamp. Another type is the a bolt type with a hole in the shaft of the bolt. The head is usually a plastic but to hold the wire and it is the strongest. Let's say you have the bolt type used by many professional speaker makers and users. You simply unscrew the plastic nut until the hole is open, then insert the wire in the hole then screw the plastic nut back tight. do a light pull test to see if the wire might slip out. Remember that these speaker connectors are colored red and black and the wire with the colored line on sheath is positive, that is it goes into the red connector. Then on the other end of the cable bet some tape or a tie to say this is the left speaker and this is the right speaker, this is the rear speaker and this is the right speaker, so that when you connect them to the Kenwood, you will not have to check which cable goes where.

The same thing goes with the Kenwood wire connection. I am a Pioneer man, I know them well. But I just happen to know that Kenwood and many others are very similar in wire connections because I am close to a store that has these, so, it's easy for me to go there and learn the tricks of trade. However, when I was writing this, it was too late to go down and have a look and the Kenwood X1000. So, I can only say that if you looked behind the machine, you'll find it all easily set and you can't go wrong. The red is positive (+) and black is negative (-). If you have been able to wire the speakers as instructed above, then you are also able to wire the Kenwood amplifier. Split the cables and strip or splice a half inch to expose the stranded wires the twist them and solder to form a solid wire for easy insertion and to stop the little copper wires in the braid from separating themselves from the twisted group. Then insert the colored line of the cable into the positive (red) clamp, clip-on, or screw type connector, whichever your amplifier has. Insert the negative soldered wire into the black clamp, clip-on or screw type connector. Do the same with the others speakers wires, recheck the connections, paying attention to polarities and test. It should work without problems. Cheers.

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find where the two wires meet and make sure they are seperated somhow especially where there is exposed copper. if you find exposed copper anywhere along either wires cover it with two wraps of electrical tape this should insulate the wires from arcing to one another.

This sounds like the previous owner installed an after market audio system. The short answer is "No do not hook the split wire ends to the thick wires. I suspect that the thick wires are power and ground for an amp and they used the rear speaker wires, split ends, as the audio input to the amp which in turn drove whatever set up they used.
With that said, it sounds like they cut the connectors off of the speaker wires and put the splits on them to wire in the amp. The splits are probably very close to being able to plug into the speakers. that is a good sign that I am right. If this is the case, you can have a tech wire the speakers back in. Also, make sure that there is no live power to the "thick" wires as that is unsafe. At least get some tape over any exposed ends and tuck the wires in a safe location.
I would need pics to comment further.

Looks like a broken copper braid that links the speaker terminal to the cone (from there on it goes to the coil which is underneath the cone).

Check the speaker connection terminals (near the magnet), you will notice that each terminal has a copper braid wire going from that terminal to the speaker cone.

Inspect both braid wires carefully at each end (near the speaker terminal and near the speaker cone), there will either be some damage to the braid at one or more of these four locations or the braid could be actually broken at any of these spots.

The braid can actually be resoldered at the point where it's damaged or broken - this task will require good soldering skills, mainly because this kind of braid wires are difficuld to solder (they are a bit difficult to clean because of their structure and solder won't attach itself well to oxydized copper), but also because some speaker cones are made of plastic which may melt if you overheat it with a soldering iron.

Besides that, when resoldering is being done, only a very short portion of the braid should be wetted with solder because the solder point will become rigid when the solder cools down, and the braid needs to remain very flexible when the speaker operates (if it's too rigid or too short, damage to the speaker cone could occur or the braid could get broken again when the speaker will be playing at a loud volume).

Hope you can have it repaired, it can be done at home, but there are also speaker repair shops where you can get it done (i'm not sure about the prices though).

Anyway, the alternative is to replace the speaker itself.

regards

3rq8 (Triarcuate)

Buy a $4.00 1/8" jack replacement from Radio Shack - part # 274-0869, which has small screw connectors that don't need soldering.
Strip about 1" of the braided insulation at the old jack end, which will expose 4 very small wires: Blue, Green, Red, Copper.

Attach the Green & Copper wires to the tallest pin on the replacement jack.

Attach the Red to the shortest pin, and the Blue to the medium pin.

Remember to slide the jack cover onto the headphone cord before attaching any wires!

This works great, I just did it.

Just go to an auto supply store & ask for "wire loom" the size you need.

The switch is a micro switch that is depressed(and not sad :)) by a plastic tag moulded on the battery cover. Once the cover is moved into position and closed, the tag presses on the micro switch closing the switch and thus removing the error message. As with any switch, a switch is simply open or closed, Open = high resistance or O/L, while closed = 0 ohms reistance. You can use a small wire to overcome the switch by soldering the wire to both tags of the switch so it is permenantly 0 ohms. This will send a message to the microprocessor that cover is closed and camera ready for use. Hope this helps.
Twitcha

more then likely the speakers are blown. wires don't go "bad" like that in a car unless exposure to moisture, and for that to happen the pvc sleeve on the wires had to be exposed (all the wires exposed at once? ) for the copper wiring to corrode.

either that they were wired in wrong at some point.

left front speaker wires grey (-) tan(+) * note there is also a grey wire in that bundle that is for the dimmer light

right left yellow (+) brown (-)

hope this helps.