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Charles Nieland Posted on Apr 06, 2014
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Original issue was chain sprocket not locking to wheel hub. Now the sprocket is not releasing from wheel hub and chain keeps coming off if not continually pedaling.

1 Answer

dante

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  • Posted on Apr 06, 2014
 dante
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Joined: Feb 28, 2011
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Sounds like the freewheel mechanism is jamming up. You could try soaking the freewheel, where the sprockets are, in something like WD-40, but most likely, the sprocket is going to need replaced. Your local bike shop can provide the correct part.

5 Related Answers

Michial Gueffroy

  • 1140 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 23, 2009

SOURCE: when you pedal the front sprocket and chain turn

On the second gear from the front There should be a bolt that screws into the flange where the shaft goes through to secure it to the shaft. When this is tightened down it stops the gear from rotating on the shaft when you are pedalling. It is on the gear where the front chain provides power to the back chain. If the bolt is missing, you should be able to replace it with any bolt that is the same diameter and thread size as the hole in the flange. When I was still building these the bolt usually had a square head on it. Unfortunately I don't remember what size the bolt was. I hope this helps.

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Anonymous

  • 1126 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 06, 2009

SOURCE: hello the center hub/freewheel keeps spining it

The hub needs serviced....normally one-way bearing isn't gripping in forward drive direction....recommend having serviced by dealer.

Anonymous

  • 97 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 01, 2010

SOURCE: Rear wheel loses the connection with pedal and

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8AsV0ojyUMU&feature=PlayList&p=E8D0D1764E9A6D0E&playnext_from=PL&playnext=1&index=37



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ptx0XInC4rA


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZp-9xQfzJo



try this links... it ll help u

Anonymous

  • 8546 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 24, 2011

SOURCE: When I ride up a

Before you go tearing everything apart it might help to understand how multi-speed derailleur shifting systems work.

Derailleur Adjustment: (likely cause of your problem)
http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

Shifting:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears.html

Cassettes and Freehubs:
http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html

Chains: (which also covers worn gear teeth, another possible cause)
http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Of course everything requires special tools and procedures.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/cassette-and-freewheel-service
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/derailleur-systems

Have fun.

Anonymous

  • 362 Answers
  • Posted on May 10, 2011

SOURCE: My son's Schwinn Ranger is

ok well its best decided how to fix it if you can tell me what style of rim and freewheel you have if the freewheel goes all the way to the tip of the axle then its more than likely a cassette style rim and if it appears hollow at the axle end and you can somewhat see inside the freewheel then i would just buy a freewheel cassette for it because in most cases a faulty freewhell body cant be serviced and need replaced when they fail up on you another cause of this is riding in the winter so find out what kind it is and message me back ok ill better inform you of the best possible way to ride happier longer :) this is also a super common problem ok

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Drive Hub, Spring Pulley & Chain Replacement for Steppers

Video about the Drive Hub Replacement Procedure for Stairmaster Steppers

  • This videocovers replacing the spring pulley, the step chain and the drive hub assembly on the Stairmaster steppers
  • Tools needed:
    • Snap Ring Pliers
    • Tip Kit for Snap Ring Pliers
    • Socket Wrench
    • 7/16" Socket
    • 7/16" Wrench
    • Needle Nose or Standard Pliers
    • Safety Goggles
  • Begin by disconnecting the spring
  • Do this by pulling up on the spring and unhooking the spring from the frame post
  • Next, using the snap ring pliers and proper tips, remove the snap ring from the spring pulley shaft
    **Important: Be sure to wear safety goggles when working with snap rings**
  • Remove and inspect the spring pulley for any flat spots replacing the pulley if necessary
    • Flat spots develop over time and can result in roughness in the pedals
  • On the side that the pulley was just removed, slowly press the pedal down
  • Remove the step chain retainer brackets (if equipped) using the 7/16" wrench, 7/16" socket and socket wrench
  • Once the retainer bracket is removed, the spring can be lifted up over the drive sprocket and disconnected from the chain
    • The spring is opened at one end to allow for maneuvering over the link
  • Using the standard or needle nose pliers, remove the master link attaching the step chain to the pedal arm
    • Place one jaw of the pliers against the open end of the clip (if installed correctly, the open end of the clip is opposite the direction of chain travel) and the other jaw of the pliers against the far side of the nearest rivet coming through the keeper link; and squeeze pliers together
    • This should pop the clip free allowing you to remove it from the master link
    • Next remove the link bar
    • Finally remove the master link disconnecting the chain from the pedal arm
  • Inspect the new step chain making sure all the chain links flex
    • Manufacturer recommends lubricating the step chain with 30W motor oil using a clean rag to remove any excess
  • Attach the new step chain to the pedal arm reversing the steps taken to disconnect the chain
  • Relieve tension on the opposite spring by lifting up on the spring and unhooking it from the frame post
  • Slowly press the pedal down
  • Feed the spring around the pulley and lift the chain up over the sprocket to move it out of the way
  • Disconnect the remaining two bolts from the drive hub assembly
  • Lift the drive chain over the sprocket and pull the drive hub from the frame
    • As the drive hub assembly starts to develop problems, you may feel clicking, hear some grinding sounds, or a pedal may stick in one position (which usually happens on one side); All of which are indicators of a worn drive hub assembly
    • The drive hub can be replaced as a complete unit
      • The drive hub consists of (3) sprockets
        • Two one way clutch sprockets that drive in one direction and slip in the opposite direction which are for the step chains
        • A larger sprocket that spins either direction and is for the drive chain
    • An inspection of the drive hub can help determine need for replacement
          • If either of the one way clutch sprockets slip in both directions, they need replaced
          • If there is a catch in any of the sprockets in any position, then it likely needs replaced
  • Reinstall the drive hub the same way it was removed
  • Slip the drive chain over the drive sprocket before mounting the hub assembly to the frame
    • The drive hub assembly on the SC916 stepper only has 4 bolt positions. The drive hub assembly on the 4400 and 4600 steppers has bolt holes all around the hub allowing the hub to be rotated for chain tension adjustment. The SC916 stepper has a preset tension and the adjustment is no longer necessary
  • Once the drive hub is bolted to the frame, reinstall the step chains on each side
  • Place the free end of the step chain (opposite the pedal arm connection) up over the step chain sprocket
  • Lift up on the pedal and pull down on the step chain
  • Place a hand on the sprocket keeping the step chain from feeding back and allowing the pedal to drop
  • Grab the spring with your opposite hand and join the spring to the step chain
  • Once the spring is attached to the chain, press the pedal down again
  • Reinstall the spring pulley and the snap ring onto the pulley shaft
  • Lift up on the pedal and pull the spring to route through the pulley, hooking the spring onto its frame post
  • Repeat these steps to attach the step chain and spring on the opposite side
  • Reinstall the step chain brackets (if equipped) making sure all bolts face the same direction
  • This concludes the video demonstration of replacing the drive hub, spring pulley and chains on the Stairmaster steppers

Spring Pulley Chain Drive Hub Replacement Video for Stairmaster Stepper...
0helpful
2answers

Chain noise chain keeps getting tight

If the chain keeps getting tight, it is in need of lubrication. Chances are it is time to replace it. I say this because if the chain breaks and locks up the rear wheel, suddenly you will be sliding down the road on your hands and knees while the bike slides a different direction. Your forward motion will likely be stopped by a Ford F250 coming from the opposite direction. Check the front and rear sprockets for wear. I will bet they both need to be replaced. Please rate my answer. Thanks!
tombones49_35.gif

0helpful
1answer

Popping noise coming from front sprocket when wheel is turned on 01 suzuki gsxr 600

hi it sounds like your front sproket is really worn and hooked when you turn the chain its not releasing the links smoothly ,replace it with a new one and check the condition of your chain it may be worth replacing a complete chain and sproket set as running a bike with a worn front sproket could lead to a back wheel locking up at speed if the chain jams
0helpful
1answer

Changed belt to chain. Now adjuster keeps losening on 2008 haley road glide

This is an unusual problem but there may be a reason. One reason is that a chain does not run as smoothly as a belt. Chains vibrate, badly. You didn't mention if the rear wheel was moving. As long as the rear wheel isn't moving, at least the adjustment isn't changing. You could use a nylon lock nut on the adjuster bolt, a "prevailing torque nut" or simply two nuts jammed against each other. Another problem could the "concentricity" of the sprocket. With the bike off the ground, roll the rear wheel and check for tight spots in the chain. When the chain goes tight, notice the position of the wheel. The hole in the center of the sprocket may not be concentric with the outside diameter of the sprocket. This could be applicable to the front sprocket as well.

Good Luck
Steve
0helpful
1answer

Rear wheel loses the connection with pedal and chain. It seems the rear sprocket where there is a lock in the hub is loose. When pedalling, the lock is lose so the rear wheel doesn't move. It's like both...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8AsV0ojyUMU&feature=PlayList&p=E8D0D1764E9A6D0E&playnext_from=PL&playnext=1&index=37



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ptx0XInC4rA


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZp-9xQfzJo



try this links... it ll help u
0helpful
1answer

Can i remove a 5 gear sprocket from 26" tire, and replace it with a 7 gear sprocket from a 20" tire? my roomates touring bike is currently a 15 speed, she loves the bike and does not want to replace it....

Several scenariosto consider here. First of all the compatibility with the hub. Second is the deraileur tarvel and the actual shifter. Components are normally matched in sets from factory and do not transfer over unless the entire set, shifter, deraileur and sprocket. Then there is the issue of chain wear fitting the crank and new hub together. Chains and gears seat into each other as they wear so a crank set should stay with the original hub as well, even if you were to install a new chain the wear pattern would be different.
So the short answer is unless the brands all match and are in new condition and the hubs are the same thread and diameter, you will not get good results
0helpful
1answer

Rear wheel won't turn when pedaling

hi there,

put your bicyles on upside down position,wheel should on top so you can work freelywork on ,then rotate the pedal to check what the problem it should be freely rotating,check break pads if it was engage even w/o pressing control.release brake cable wire to loosen.if not in the break,check the sprocket gear if connecting to the chain belt,check your sprocket release lock,if damage replace sprocket, check the bearing of the two wheel center shafting if worn out replace bearing,on front wheel there are two quick release nuts,loosen and pull out wheel and loosen all nuts and lock plate bearing,pull out shafting with the bearing,examine mostly bearing worn out also shafting in some occasion its worn out also,possible if you want replace one set center shafting and bearing ts not costly,on rear wheel with sprocket it different to disconnect,beacause there is sprocket,you should dismantle the locked plate and lock nuts of sprocket before the shafting assymble same procedure now on front wheel when after disconnecting sprocket on rear wheel.hope this will guide you and solved your problem have anice day.
0helpful
2answers

Chain

Yes. It’s likely that the sprockets are worn. Putting a new chain non a worn pair of sprockets will make the chain wear out faster—and replacing the sprockets without replacing the chain will sear out the sprockets. Do them as a set.
1helpful
1answer

Chain adjustment question

Well i dont think the ride hieght will change, nothing you could notice, and if your changing sprockets its best to do both and a new chain, now i might add that it is preffered to change chain with sprockets not required if the sprockets are ok. As to the length i can only say i run the 17 tooth around the city and for the long trips i swap back to the 18, mind you it is a new 18 not the original, of course with the change back (2nd time) i have not changed the chain and have been running the same chain length, it has shortened the wheel base from the original 18 tooth front, but i kinda like it a little shorter, gives me more weight over it and the front gives more feed back, but thats just me, not saying its right
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