How to take a part the motor - Sunbeam 2350 Heritage Series Mixer

It sounds like your motor is going bad. When an electric motor has some age, the motor brushes will wear out and fail to make contact inside the motor. The missing sound you are describing is probably a burnt spot on the armature where the brushes are not transferring electricity. If the unit is an expensive unit, you may be able to order replacement brushes for the motor, or even better.... a replacement motor

I think... without knowing that motor... that the capacitor is a start capacitor, and that the start switch may be trying to "start" the motor full-time instead of switching it out of circuit after it figures that the motor has spun up. I may be wrong - that design may be a capacitor-run motor (similar to a three-phase motor) - but I'm betting it's a start-only capacitor.

If you know someone with a capacitance meter, you could check the capacitor - for both capacitance (to be sure it matches the label) and leakage. Easy way to write that one off. Alternatively, you could rig it such that after the motor's wound up you could manually disconnect the capacitor and see what happens - either the motor stops or else the smoking issue stops.

Whatever you do, don't let it smoke very long. The varnish on the windings is only so thick.

I think that the motor is still fine. Get a Copy of the Repair Part List from Kitchenaid.com.
First thing I would do is to check the two Motor Brushes (one on each
side of the Motor Housing). Make sure they are not worn out, and when
inserted, they must both make contact with the Motor Coils. If even
one of them is not in contact with the coils, the motor will not run.
You can also remove the Motor Housing and visually verify that they
are touching the Coils.

If I have to guess, I think that the motor is still fine. Get a Copy of the
Repair Part List from Kitchenaid.com.
First thing I would do is to check the two Motor Brushes (one on each
side of the Motor Housing). Make sure they are not worn out, and when
inserted, they must both make contact with the Motor Coils. If even
one of them is not in contact with the coils, the motor will not run.
You can also remove the Motor Housing and visually verify that they
are touching the Coils.

Don't worry about the Worm Gear for now. You have to make sure that the Motor
is fully functional by itself: Remove the Transmission Housing Cover (4 screws) and
the two screws holding the Motor down. Lift the Motor off the Worm Gear and set it
on the side (be careful of AC voltages from the Motor and Control Assembly).
Select Stir setting and observe the motor shaft. Is the Motor running? If it is,
Select other speeds to see how the motor performs.
With the motor now fully functional, you can now check the Worm Gear Follower
for worn out/broken teeth. Remember the motor drives the Worm Gear, it then in
turn drives the Worm Gear Follower (you may have to remove the grease to see it)
The Bevel Gear sits right on top of the Follower and drives the Attachment Gear.

There are two motor brushes, one on each side of the Motor Housing.
Both must be in contact with the motor coils. If they are too worn out
and/or improperly installed, the motor will not run. Unscrew the black
plastic caps and remove both Brush and Spring Assemblies. Notice
that the brushes are keyed (i.e. one corner is not square) and are
designed to go in the motor housing only one way, in order to make
contact with the motor coils. You can clearly see this if you have the
housing off, whether or not the brushes come in contact with the motor.

You cannot wire a three phase motor for single phase and you cannot wire a single phase motor for three phase. If you have a three phase dual voltage motor your options are 220 or 440 volts. If you have a single phase dual voltage motor your options are 120 or 240 volts. A 208 volt Hobart motor will only function correctly on 208 volts and is not dual voltage.

It sounds like your motor is okay if it is trying to drive the unit, it may be that one of the gears inside the unit have broken or chipped. this can cause a lot of damage quickly and should be disassembled right away and cleaned. another source of this noise could be that your motor fan blade which is attached to the motor is hitting the armature field winding. you could easily detect this if you have the back panel off and turn your mixer on This motor is not a Hobart motor simply because its made by Whirlpool and Hobarts motors for smaller mixers are mostly no longer available as where the whirlpool motor is still available.hope this helps

Thanks

I have the same problem after running for a while, turning off then back on. It will not start. I found the heat sink fuse in the motor was burning out. When the motor gets hot then turned off, no fan and the heat build up enough to melt the heat fuse. It would be an easy replacement if I could find where to get them. To find it on the motor, look at the wire going from one corner of the motor to another, but looks like it goes into the motor in between. Pull on that going into the motor to lift the heat fuse out.

Zaczac,
There are two probable causes for this. One is that the insulation in the motor has broken down. This is definitely an unsafe condition, and unless you are a motor repair specialist there is nothing you can do.
The other cause is an accumulation of graphite around the brush holders. Fixing this would require pulling down the motor and cleaning the graphite away. This usually happens with motors that have done a lot of work.
It is normal that by the time the brushes have worn so much that the dust causes shorting the motor needs to be serviced.

Read this to understand what is required to pull the motor down and to reset the speed control:

http://www.fixya.com/support/t2208012-sunbeam_mixmaster_12_speed_may_need

Just cleaning the motor housing out thoroughly may get the machine running. I make no guarantees though. If the motor insulation is failing the motor will remain unsafe.