Wont spin aggitate cycle works, but the spin cycle doesn't spin, the motor runs but wont spin, I replaced the wig-wag, but the selanoid that pulls up the spin cycle wont pull up?
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If that is the old belt driven modle I would check the lid switch. If it is bad then no power will get to the wig-wag and the transmission will not be shifted. If the switch is fine check for corrosion on the shift pins or an open wigwag coil. The wig wag has 4 wires. 2 white wires that are common AND 2 other wires for wash and spin. A neat trick is to swap the 2 control wires and see if it washes in spin and spins in wash. That way you can determine if the wig wag coil is bad. If the washer is a newer model without a belt I would say your lid switch is bad.
check the "wig-wags" that shift the transmission in the washer,they are 2 coils(solenoids) located adjacent the motor on the transmission,if they get no power they wont shift transmission into next cycle of wash mode
This sounds like an Ancient model......LoL ! The Wig-wag shifts between agitate and spin. They went bad often ! Is this a pre 1985 Model ? If so, the wig -wag is a possibility. If it agitates, the belt is still good.Hope this helps.
There is a part called the Wig Wag. It is 2 solenoids on a metal bar about 6 inches long. It has a hole in the center of the bar and 3 electrical wires go up through the center. One is a common wire and the other two go to each selenoid. One selenoide when activated causes the WIG WAG to shift the Transmission into WASH MODE or SPIN MODE. They are powered by 115 VOLTS AC and is enough to KILL YOU.
What you will find is the 3 wires are held together by a few wraps of electrical tape. Because the WIG WAG moves while the machine is running, the wires are all the time FLEXING. Eventually a wire will break and in this case it was the SPIN Wire to the SPIN solenoid.
Replacing all 3 wires is the best fix. Splicing near the wig wag could cause the wires to break again, They could then pinch or touch the moving metal parts and if the washer is NOT properly GROUNDED someone could get ELECTROCUTED and KILLED.
USE CAUTION doing this repair. The replacemet wire needs to be FINE Grain Flexable wire. If you use something like Lamp Cord that is not designed to be flexed hundreds of times will soon break.
Check with Sears Parts and ask for a Wig Wag Wire Harness.
You can lay the machine on it's back and see this problem. Caution plugging it in on it;s back, something could break.
The Wig Wag can take your fingers off..... CAREFUL !!!!
Do this repair at your own risk. It is dangerous.
At least you will know what to tell the Repairman.
you really still have a belt model? that unit is close to 30 years old now. anyway if the unit looks like all is moving, then you may have a bad lid switch or most likely an open coil on the wig wag assembly. it is the part the has 2 coils on a metal bracket on top of the transmission. it moves back and forth when the unit is running. does it drain but just not spin? if so then you could just have a broken wire to the wig wag or the coil could be bad. wires do break to the wig wag , but you usually hear the coils engaging then shutting off if the wires are bad. so check the coils and try to replace the wig wag second if you dont find a bad wire.
not that unique, whats happening is the transmission has a wig wag and
shift cam bars that are not moving at the right time. you probably
have an open coil on the wig wag and its normal for them to do this
when a coil fails. just take the 5/16 screw out of the wig wag and
lift it off the plungers, then replace it with a new one. all should
work correctly after that.
ok so now i have seen your ? 4 times and you dont need a basket drive either. you might want to make sure you didnt unhook a wire from the wig wag when you changed the motor and it could also be the cam bars are just stuck, which ever, just look at the wig wag and bars. that will be your area to repair.
not that unique, whats happening is the transmission has a wig wag and shift cam bars that are not moving at the right time. you probably have an open coil on the wig wag and its normal for them to do this when a coil fails. just take the 5/16 screw out of the wig wag and lift it off the plungers, then replace it with a new one. all should work correctly after that.
not that unique, whats happening is the transmission has a wig wag and
shift cam bars that are not moving at the right time. you probably
have an open coil on the wig wag and its normal for them to do this
when a coil fails. just take the 5/16 screw out of the wig wag and
lift it off the plungers, then replace it with a new one. all should
work correctly after that.
the older belt drive washer has a cylanoid under it on the top trans missin called a wig wag eather broken wire to it are bad wig wag can still be found ck lid switch also
ON THIS MACHINE WHEN IT AGGITATES MOTOR ROTATES ONE DIRECTION, WHEN IT PUMPS OUT AND SPINS IT ROTATES THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION. YOUR MACHINE IS ROTATING THE WRONG DIRECTION WHEN IT FILLS., INDICATING THAT THE TIMER IS SENDING VOLTAGE TO WRONG WIRES. SOLUTION , REPLACE TIMER.
PS: MAKE SURE ALL WIRES ARE PLUGGED IN TO MOTOR. WHILE THIS IS UNLIKELY , I HAVE SEEN THIS BE THE PROBLEM.
motor runs for agatate tries to start spinning and quiets
SPINNING CYCLE WONT WORK
not completing cycle wont spin
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