Stovetop igniters work, but oven doesn't. I'm assuming the oven has an electric igniter, because manual doesn't say. But the equipment doesn't look like the manual pilot light in the manual.
Called a spark igniter
Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.
You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.
On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.
The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.
Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
SOURCE: GE Oven does not light - no gas smell and no electronic ignition clicking sound
It probably needs an oven igniter. Remove oven racks. Remove oven floor. Usually 2 screws towards back. Remove flame spreader if it has one. You can see long tube with holes in sides and igniter with 2 wires from rear. Now try oven. See if igniter glows. If it does but doesn't light within 1 minute, replace igniter.
If it doesn't glow, you need to check for power to igniter. Should be about 100 volts. If not may need ERC, "Electronic Range Control".
SOURCE: Oven burner will not ignite
http://www.southbendnc.com/downloads/manuals/500SeriesManual_1188716.pdf
try this web site for operations manual.
Sounds as if the thermocouple may be bad. It is enough to keep pilot lite but not enough to open safety valve. Some of their ovens have a "Mercury Switch" instead of a thermocouple. Look behind the kick plate. It will have a white ceramic base and have 2 wires going to it. The end sits in the pilot same as thermocouple. If there is a pilot valve, make sure that once the pilot is lit, you turn it to "on" if the position is available. Lots of options on these ovens as they custom build alot for certain companys. Check this out and let me know.
Hi, The ignitor is getting weak and will not open the gas valve. Replace the ignitor and you will be back in business. This is a very common problem with the gas ovens.
Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Vic
SOURCE: Cannon Cambridge Double Oven. Main oven not heating up
Problem solved, Turned out to be the flame fail device. Next problem was sourcing part. Turns out that allegedly Cannon is now owned by Hotpoint so sourced part through them
SOURCE: our imperial convection oven will not light. NO ignition
Your door switch is not reading that the unit is closed
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