Copper diagram from compressor to coil - True 49 cu. ft. / 1388 liter Commercial Freezer GDM-49F-RC

I had this happen to my freezer and I had to install a fan in the freezer by a repair man and then it worked like brand new.

The reed valve in the compressor has failed, or the dryer unit is bloked. if you can access the rear of the freezer, with power off, tap the compressor gently with a solid object (hammer), then start the unit, also, if you see the copper tubes near the compressor, you will notice one of the tubes feeds into a copper barrel object about 3-4 inches long, it will have a fine copper tube comming out at the other end about 3mm thick, with the unit on, tap this object with the back of a bread and butter knife a few times with about the same force as to open a nut ( A good tap). Should do the trick if the unit is repairable.

Hope that helps, dont forget to vote and get back to me for further solutions if this fails..Russ

Ice showing on the copper lines is a sign of a dirty coil or low refrigerant.

The most common problem is low refrigerant (freon). If you don't have gauges to check the pressure of your refrigerant, do this: the compressor has one small line running to the coils on the top of the freezer. That small line should be hot enough to burn your finger if you touch it when the compressor is running. Also the big copper tube running into the compressor should be cold to the touch, almost freezing. If not you are probably low on refrigerant. Without gauges and the ability to buy freon, you will need to hire a refrigeration repair service to find the leak in your system, repair it and then gas it up. But there are a couple of other things to check first. Near the compressor is a radiator like set of coils in front of a fan. If the compressor is running that fan should be running too. if not, the unit won't cool. Also the radiator coils may be covered with dust or grease. You must have a good flow of air through these coils to dissapate the heat put out by the compressor.If it is stopped up, brush the dust from the front of the coils. Look inside the freezer as well and make sure the inside coils are not frozen over. Is so unplug the unit and let the frost melt off. If that is happening you may need a new timer on your drfrost system.

Vacuuming the coil is not usually sufficient to clean them properly. Hold a flashlight behind the radiator on top of the freezer to see if you can see freely through the coils. If not, the best way to clean the coil is to spray coil cleaner on there and flush with plenty of water. It is a mess but it will get the grease off the coild. If you do not have gauges to check the pressures of the refrigerant (lets call it freon), you can get a good guess by doing the following: Get a ladder, climb up so you can see in the top of the cabinet where the compressor is located. It looks kind of like a bowling ball. There will be one small copper line and one large copper line running from the compressor. The small line is the high pressure line. It should be hot enough to burn your finger. It then goes through a small pan where it evaporates excess water, then to a "radiator" which has a fan running behind it. If the machine is running this fan should be on. The small line then runs into the freezer box. At this point the line should be warm, not hot to the touch. If this is not happening you are probably low on freon. The other copper line on the compressor is returning from the freezer box to the compressor. It should be very cold to the touch. It should have moisture collection on it. If this is not happening you are probably low on freon. Other factors can effect your freezer. Make sure the fan near the compressor is running. Make sure the fan or fans inside the freezer are running. They will stop running when you open the door, so hold the door button in when you check the inside fans. Check also to see if there is a build up of ice on the inside coil. Your freezer should run a defrost cycle 4 times a day to remove the ice. If it has ice it will not run properly. If you can remove your product for 24 hours and shut the freezer down, prop the door open and the ice will melt. On restart if the freezer goes down to 0 quickly (30 minutes) it was probably frozen over. This may indicate a bad defrost timer or heater. Try these things.

see if the repairman can come out and replace,it may not cool properly

Good day,
As a rule copper/steel yes. Aluminum no. However, if aluminum, wait a while, some guy may be weaving magic out there as I post this.
Small holes can be epoxied, but your describing a complete break.
2 brass unions and a new section of pipe might be made to work, but the ferrules in the union are copper, and copper and aluminum don't like each other, eventually leading to failure.

Hi..

Try to check this

• Check the temperature setting
• Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the refrigerator or freezer
• Check for air flow restrictions in vents
• Test the temperature control
• Clean the condensor coils
• Check the door seals
• Test the door switch
• Test defrost heater
• Test defrost timer
• Test evaporator fan
• Check for a clogged drain tube
• Check for refrigerant leak

Good luck!!!

Regards
PCmania

it sound like your unit has a bad sensor on it or a leak. you should never have to add refrigerant to a unit unless theres a leak then it has to be repaired firdt the recharged.

• if you are tapping into a sealed system, then you use the larger of the two copper lines coming out of the side of the compressor (this is the low pressure line, the compressor pulls from this side).
• clean off the copper tubing with some fine sandpaper before installing your tap.
• it is very easy to over fill a system with freon, so i would recommend pulling down the system to -30 psi and holding for at least 20 minutes. then add a known amount of freon to the system. 
• let it run for a while, it will take a little time to get the temperatures down.