I need to know what terminals to connect the start capacotor to on a ae4440yxa compressor

Hello,

Compressor is one reason why your freezer may not get cold. The compressor which is usually found at the back of the freezer helps to pump out gas/ cold air and the fan circulates this cold air in the freezer. If this compressor is knocked/defective, the freezer won't cool. Also, gas in the compressor sometimes get's finished and needs to be refilled. So, the compressor needs to be checked in a situation like this.

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster.

I hope the above helps.....

For further assistance, please let me know.

Regards.

check the fan motor.

Hello,

Compressor is one reason why your freezer may not get cold. The compressor which is usually found at the back of the freezer helps to pump out gas/ cold air and the fan circulates this cold air in the freezer. If this compressor is knocked/defective, the freezer won't cool. Also, gas in the compressor sometimes get's finished and needs to be refilled. So, the compressor needs to be checked in a situation like this.

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster.

I hope the above helps.....

For further assistance, please let me know.

Regards.

When the overtemperature light comes on it is an indication of possible failure.
But before panicing check these items first.
1.Condenser clean
2. Condenser fan operating (if so equipped)
3. Clearence around unit to allow proper air flow
4. Is compressor running ? (if not check relay, overload)

The compressor relay's purpose is to start the compressor. A faulty relay can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator.
Before testing a compressor relay, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Also, if the compressor uses a capacitor, it must be discharged first to avoid the risk of electrical shock.
The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip.
Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor
Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing.
Test the compressor relay for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.
With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M". The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up).

With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The multitester should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up).
Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L".

The multitester should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity.
With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M".

The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms.
If the compressor relay does not pass all of these tests, it should be replaced

The two pieces are Relay and Overload.

If you are using a supco relay/overload combination that has three wires with terminals and two wires with stripped ends the wiring is as such.

Red-Run Terminal, White-Start Terminal, Black-Common Terminal (Overload was wired to this)

Stripped wires are connected to line cord along with condenser fan wires.

Good day,
When the thermostat is turned on, the fan and compressor should come on and start at the same time. If the compressor continues to run and the fan doesn't, then the fan motor or the wiring to it are suspect.

Quote (The fan motor is o.k ). I doen't know how you tested it, but it still remains suspect, since the thermostat sends power to both of them at the same time.

Well lets start by saying that is possibly the "cause", and we certainly know the "effect", now for a solution. With any luck all you did when tipping it was cause a wire to come loose, or the relay/overload on the compressor is not making a good solid connection.

*FIRST; unplug the unit from the wall or shut off the breaker...best to unplug, then you're sure.

*before working on the compressor or sealed system you should verify through your owners manual you will not void any future warranty as some units have a 5yr. sealed system including compressor warranty and others have a 10yr. compressor part only warranty as well.

since the fan is working (you indicated it was in the post by saying it was "blowing air but not cold).

look in back of the unit, at the bottom sits the compressor. on the right side of the compressor may be a plastic cover, it's small and kinda square. This cover houses the start/overload device. if it's held in place by a metal clip, remove it (careful, they can and usually do have sharp edges). once the cover is removed, examine the connection to the compressor, is it loose ? if it IS. awesome. secure it in place and try starting the unit now. if it is NOT loose, take it off and shake it in your hand. does it rattle (like something inside is in a million fragments)? if it does, it's toast, you can find a replacement at an on-line parts depot or a local appliance parts supplier. you may opt for a "all in one" start pack. you should be able to score one (#RCO410) for around $15-$20us. make sure you get the right size. there are some good for residential compressors up to 1/8 hp and others for compressors up to 1/3. you don't want one too powerful or you'll damage the motor windings, but you need one powerful enough the start the compressor under a slight head pressure load.

if the unit has been "seemingly" running, as soon as you unplug it, reach to the back and put your hand on the compressor, careful it potentially could be very hot. that being said, if it is hot, you know the compressor has actually been run, hence "trying" to pump/cool. If that is the case, it is likely the worst case scenario. this would mean you've got oil in the system where you don't want it and the "cap" line is plugged. you can try leaving it unplugged and upright for a long period of time to see if the oil all runs back into the compressor, but likely it will need the system opened and pumped out, and that can be very costly and time consuming.

that should give you a bit of a reference of what may be happening. beyond that I'd seriously consider an expert tech.

good luck

Sounds like the compressor has locked up. You can try to replace the start relay which plugs onto the compressor terminals.

Most factory built refrigerators and freezers have 5 year refrigeration system warranties. You will pay for labor and other consumables.

DO you mean the fan motor beside the compressor?

If the fan motor is not turning and is stuck try moving the blade. If it starts the motor is probably going out. Remove and replace. If its warm to hot and not turning check for resistance through the motor windings and volts at the wires coming to it. No resistance means the motor is open and it may cool down and reset. Correct voltage means usually the fan motor is going out and has overloaded.. :
If so check the wires to it for proper voltage. If the volts are there the motor is at fault. If no volts look for a broken wire at the compressor terminals.

This should get you headed in the right direction if you need more tell me more as to what you find with ohms and volts check and touch and feel the motor - hot / cold how long on / off it has been how long the compressor runs...

If I understand your problem correectly and this helps you please ratye me as high as yuou can and thanks for using fix ya.

The S terminal should read zero when you invert the relay. The M terminal should be zero at all times through the relay. If you follow the coil wires on the relay you will find they go from the line connection to the M terminal. M meaning main or run terminal. When current is drawn through the M terminal it pulls in the contact for start to the S terminal. When the compressor comes up to speed the current drops off and the start contact opens allowing the compressor to continue to run on the M terminal.