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You could try putting the tiller to use, preferably where it will have to work hard to till the ground it unsuccessful you may need a torch and some good old fashion luck to loosen tines from shaft. Now consider this; if the bearings are worn so that the shaft is loose new seals will not hold up and you will risk doing further damage to the worm gear located on rear shaft and possibly other damage to your transmission from contaminated oil.
IF THIS IS A WALK BEHIND TILLER OR FRONT TINE TILLER. THERE SHOULD BE PINS OR BOLTS HOLDING THE TINES ON THE DRIVE SHAFT REMOVE THESE AND PULL THE TINES OFF THE TILLER. THEY MAY GIVE YOU A HARD TIME GETTING THEM OFF SO DON'T GIVE UP. ONCE YOU GET THE TINES OFF YOU SHOULD SEE THE SEALS YOU CAN POP THE OLD ONES OUT WITH A SCREW DRIVER CLEAN OUT THE SOCKETS WHERE THE NEW SEALS WILL GO REPLACE THE NEW SEALS GENTLY WITH A SMALL HAMMER TAPPING THEM IN EVENLY AND TRY NOT TO BEND THE SEAL
I presume you opened the port and removed the grade 8 placement bolt? If you have then you need to polish the shafts with 400 then 800 sandpaper, clean then lube them before trying to slide thru the support bearings. If your tine shaft is bent? your screwed, or just remove the shaft seals with a screwdriver and replacing them without removing the shaft. REmember to put a thin coat od RTV arround the outer lip to help make a better seal
The gear box can be removed, reset and resealed using gasket magic. It is not a quick fix and during this process I also replaced the tine shaft seals as I had lubricant leaking from the gear-box to the tine shaft. When you are tilling you should avoid rocky areas. It iseems sudden tension due to bouncing is what knocks the chain loose.
DO NOT remove the belt pulley from the top of the gear box. It is unecessary. You must remove the entire assembly from the rear of the machine. It is set in place by 6 bolts and come off as a whole unit. Once it is removed then undo the three bolts and spacers that hold the case in place. Remove the case from the frame by sliding it out the open end. You will have to remove all of the bolts around the outside of the case; a cordless drill really comes in handy here. Lay the case on its side, as you remove the bolts you may experience lubricant dripping from the centers of the removed bolt holes, or at the center holes where the case connected to the frame. This is not a problem as you will need to replace the 90 weight lubricant after you have resealed the case anyway. Once you have removed all of the bolts, using a flathead screwdriver and a mallet or hammer. break the seal around the outside of the case. You may have to go around a few times, but eventually it will pull apart revealing the sprockets, bound chain and remaining lubricant. Since it is open this is an ideal time to check for wear on sprockets and remove any large debris from the case. reset the chain so that the tine shaft moves freely and the corresponding sprockets spin as you move the tine shaft. Using a gasket sealant (Gasket Magic**) put a thick bead of sealant in the center of flat outside edge where the two sides of the case come together. Add a little extra around bolt holes. Replace the two covers snugly together and begin finger-tightening the bolts back into the crank case. Once you have completed this task, go back over the bolts and tighten with a hand wrench. Once the case is back together allow 45m to an hour for the sealant to completly harden before introducing lubricant to the system. Then reattach the case to the rear assembly and then put your tiller back together.
This occurrence seams to be an issue with these machines, however the problem is avoidable as it is persistant use in rocky or hard ground areas which causes causes the system to jump and bind. If you happen upon a hard patch of earth or rocky area, go slow, do not force the tiller and remove any large debris when possible before tilling.
an new oil seal needs to be put onto the output shaft of the transmission. remove the plug wire if you attempt to pry out the old seal and tap in the new seal. Be careful not to damage the case and grease the seal and shaft when you replace the oil seal
The tines sometimes get frozen to the shaft. You might try penatrating oil and use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat to loosen.
Also tap wiht a hammer around shaft.
The serial number is located on a flat spot just above the right wheel shaft where the gear housing and the top gear cover meet. It will be a six digit number stamped in the metal.
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