No door heat

Your light switch is white generally around frame... As for door heater it will be on as soon as you plug unit it. You can feel around door jam to see if heating... Should be warm not scalding hot. McCall was sold to manitowoc and some parts are no longer available. If you're able to do repair yourself try case parts.

When a freezer is not working the door frame heaters don't know and just keep on heating as long as the unit is plugged in. As far as being stuck in defrost, there are safeties built in to keep that from happening. If it truly is the case components and wiring have been changed and really will require a tech to sort it out. Generally though, the door heaters will make it hot inside if the compressor isn't on. You might want to take a closer look and feel the compressor and see if its hot and trying to come on. Hope this helps and good luck.

The heat at the opening of refrigerator is usually a sign the condenser coils are dirty. Check the condenser coils for a restriction underneath the unit. Dirty condenser coils will cause poor air flow over the coils and compressor. Poor air flow will cause a lot of problems, including overheating the compressor, the refrigerant and the copper lines. This will destroy your sealed system. The coils need cleaning at least once a year, more often if you have pets.
I couldn’t determine if your unit has an “energy saver” setting. If so, turn it on. Not all refrigerators have energy saver. This is on units with emilion heaters in the wall around the door gaskets. The heaters are to eliminate condensation around the door. Turning ON energy saver turns OFF those heaters. You should notice a change quickly if it’s the heater causing the heat, that is, if you have that model.
Cleaning the coils will need a day or two to allow things to cool down before you notice a change in the heat around the door.

You refrigerator was made by Frigidaire Adaptive Defrost Controls Frigidaire Refrigerator Trouble Shooting and Diagnosing
On the initial plugin, or when power is restored to the fridge after a power outage:
If terminating thermostat is open, the fridge enters a compressor (cooling) cycle.
If the terminating thermostat is closed, the first defrost cycle occurs 1 hour
after initial plug-in.
Maximum defrost cycle time is 24 minutes.
Minimum time between defrost cycles is 6 hours. (compressor runtime)
Maximum normal clock time between defrost cycles is 12 hours.
Maximum time between defrost cycles (in "vacation" mode) is 72 hours.
Vacation mode is not entered unless the door has not been opened in at least 24 hours.
Note that the ADC will only enter the defrost mode if the terminating thermostat is closed. If the terminating thermostat is open when defrost is initiated, the ADC board will wait for six minutes and then return to the cooling mode.
ASSUMING that the fridge has been on and running,
and the terminating thermostat is closed,
defrost is initiated by pressing the door (light) switch
at least five times within six seconds.
The defrost heater should start heating up within 8 seconds.
If the above procedure caused the heater to heat up, the ADC board is probably bad; replace it.
If the defrost heater does not heat up, test the defrost heater, terminating thermostat and cold control for continuity as follows:
Unplug the fridge from the wall. Unplug the ADC board from its connector.
Test the connector for continuity between the following leads:
Defrost Heater = DEF TERM (blue) to DEF OUT (brown).
Terminating Thermostat = DEF TERM (blue) to NEUTRAL (lt blue).
Cold Control = COLD CONTROL (orange) to L1 (black).
Replace the defective component.

From what you describe it sounds as though the condensation heaters in the door frame are on perhaps too much. find the switch if there is one and turn it off to see if that stops the heating and if so, you may have a bad thermostat for the condensation heater.

The door frame has a heater to stop ice forming around frame. This is normal. You don't notice it when freezer is cold. The freezer should start working again.

Not sure of your model number and manufacturer, but in some freezer there is a seperate drain heater that should stay on for the complete defrost time. (the defrost heater will shut off when the evap coil reaches a certain temp, and the rest of the defrost time only the drain heater is energized.) That would be the very first place that I would start. Hope this helps

http://www.truemfg.com/catalog/servlet/com.apsiva.servlet.HomeServlet
Go to this True web site. It has spec sheets and manuals. Hope this helps you

if the freezer is cold and the fridge is not then it can be several things. The freezer could have a bunrt out defrost heater, defrost timer faulty, fan not working in the freezer??. all of these things will stop your fridge getting cold, but your freezer will still be around minus 9 deg c. you wont get any air into the fridge as the coil in the freezer is prob all iced over. Dont worry about the heat on the door frame as it is only the anti sweat heater

Icing is caused by warm, moist air hitting cold air. Either your gasket is not properly sealing to the frame or the door frame heater is either off or not working. Some units have an off/on switch for that. The heater is usually referred to as an "Anti Sweat" heater. Make sure the door is closing and sealing. The door frame should be slightly warm to the touch. If not, look for no power to the heater or the heater could be damaged/ burned out.

Good luck and hope this helps,.