I initially had a pump problem determined from ND code. After consulting on this site, I was able to take apart the pump and find it jammed with polyfill from a dog bed (lesson learned!!). I ran it in test mode and draining fine, so I put it back together and figured I was back in business. I was so very proud of myself that I put in a load and went to brag to Dad how his little girl fixed her own washer, after being told by a repair guy that "it was too expensive to fix and no way would I be able to repair myself" hah, I thought! I went to check on the load only to find it overflowing with water & I was only able to shut it off by shut vavle at wall. It ran both hot & cold water thru machine even when machine is unplugged. I am not 100% that this happened before I "fixed" it. One thing I may have done wrong is (please understand, I had to take back off, realize it wasn't way to get to pump, reassmebly, etc..I had gotten frustrated and lazy, I didn't removewater lines before I propped up lid with a broom so I could work/see when working on pump. {By hold it up this way did I break it?}After looking through all similar posts, I disconnect water inlet valve to clean for debris, I am at a loss. It doesn't come apart. I am afraid of spending time & money to replace and it not be the answer. Any suggestions?
SOURCE: Water temperature problem
Chief Walley, you have a temperature control board that sits right behind the timer. A thermistor senses the water and sends the info to this board. The thermistor sits at the water injector. The board may be your problem, I have seen many like this. Keep in mind that the target temp for cold is 75 degrees. If your incomming water is higher than this, you are going to get a warm fill, which they think is cold. Without being there, I would go after the board. Catriver...post back.
SOURCE: Maytag performa washer hot water runs continuously
dudett, uplug the washer and turn the water valves on. If the washer is filling with the washer unplugged the valve is bad. Part number 22001196. Not a hard job. If you need help installing, just e-mail the cat here at [email protected] Catriver..post back.
SOURCE: Washer filled up with water when not turned on
It sounds like the water inlet valve assembly is letting a trickle of water thru when its not supposed to. It is located on the rear of the washer, it is the part the water hoses connect to. Make sure the power and water are turned off, then disconnect the water fill hoses. The valve is attached to a bracket, the valve will have 4 electrical selenoids on it and a hose leading further into the machine. Make a drawing of where the wires/colors were attached before you pull them off. The valve for that machine (MLG2000AWW or MLG2000AXW) usually costs about $45.00 to $55.00
SOURCE: will not drain - know how to take apart hoses from pump to see bl
Hello itieflies83
My two cents: I’m an owner/DIY'er and have not experienced a pump/blockage issue. With the test I speak of the controller board sends 120VAC directly to the pump no other signaling ie. the pressure switch can override the test, you are in Service Mode. If your pump impeller is turning (not jammed) and you have removed the front panel and verified no clogs are restricting input flow to the pump then this test should pump out the tub. I would not suspect a clog on the pump output side but could happen. The noise from my pump running is a little bit louder than a hum. Does the hum you hear from the pump sound familiar as it worked normally in the past? If there is no input blockage to the pump my next step would be to remove the pump, inspect the input to the pump for clog/jam, power up the pump and verify the impeller is turning. If you can’t DIY and you can’t get a local DIY’er to help you then it’s decision time to get a qualified appliance service repair person involved if you are going to keep the machine. Cost would be for the service call and pump. See if they would bring out a pump for the machine on the first service call. They will need your model number and serial number of the machine. Online parts supplier sells the pump for about $40. Maybe other forum members will jump in and offer another resolution path to go down. Good luck to you.
Link for the pump p/n ;
AP4035317.
The parts supplier;
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5169371
SOURCE: washer not spinning or draining
Same problem. Water wouldn't drain, no trouble codes, door wouldn't unlock. When the Rinse and Spin cycle or Drain cycle was selected all I got was a growling humm from the pump. Clued in by the above postings I pulled the washer away from the wall, tipped it back so it leaned against the wall with the bottom fully exposed and removed the plastic panel covering the bottom (underneath - 4 screws) of the machine. The small pump was just where these postings said it would be, top right of the bottom opening. Disconnect the two drain hoses from the pump. Mine were connected with hose clamps that I removed with just my thumb and fore-finger. I had two quarters AND a nickel lodged inside the pump and was able to coax them out without removing the pump. Replaced the hoses and bottom panel, tipped upright and I was back in business - didn't even have to unplug (Its never a bad idea to do so) or disconnect the water hoses.
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I wass able to remove valve, but can't see how to further take apart to clean for debris....
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